Pittsburgh Dish

Florist delivers more than roses

A favor becomes a delicious cause

Kerry Kennedy is the North Side's milkman. Even he's not sure how he got the job.

Kennedy's Allegheny West floral and gift shop has become an unwitting hub for pick up and delivery for Brunton's chocolate milk (the finest chocolate milk in Christendom). Somehow  Kennedy has become the chocolate coated milkman for neighbors who drop off their empty glass returnable bottles to his Western Avenue shop for refills.

"I told a couple of people how much I love the chocolate milk and was going to the store for more and offered to pick some up for them," laughed Kennedy. "Then, one day I found myself carrying 12 bottles to the car!"

Kennedy will fetch the chocolate milk and store it in his flower cooler for pick-up. There they they will safely sit, guarded by the gardenias.

Kennedy doesn't mind grabbing a few extra bottles on his trips to either Patty's farm market in Aspinwall or Janoski's Farm Market in Clinton. But he'd like to see a North Side market or coffee shop carry the chocolate milk so more neighbors can experience its udder joy.

"I'd carry it but it might be kind of strange supplying flowers and...milk," laughed Kennedy. "Maybe someone might see this and consider selling it!"

James A. Brunton Jr., Brunton Dairy's owner, died suddenly last week on the farm and Kennedy thinks finding a retail outlet on the North Side is a small tribute to a farm family who have been in business for more than a century.

"Their chocolate milk is like sipping melted ice cream," said Kennedy. "More people should be able to enjoy what the Bruntons have created."

If interested in providing Brunton's milk for the North Side, email Dish (editor@pittsburghdish.com) or call Kennedy at 412-322-ROSE.      

Pittsburgh's only Fair Trade florist

Allegheny West's Kerry Kennedy blazes a fragrant path

by Tiffani Emig

There’s a new pioneer on the North Side, in Pittsburgh and in the U.S. Kerry Kennedy of K.S. Kennedy Distinctive Floral, Gift, & Gourmet has recently become the first florist in the United States to become a member of the Fair Trade Floral organization FLP (Flower Label Program).

Based in Germany, where consumer desire for fair trade flowers is higher, the FLP consists of human rights organizations, trade unions, flower producers, and flower retailers working together to create and uphold environmental and human rights standards for the floral industry.

"Americans have really been concerned in recent years about where their coffee comes from, but we don’t ask about our flowers,” said Kennedy. He explains that he was inspired to join the FLP after watching the documentary Ecuador: Flower Power, which depicts the differences between fair trade and traditional rose farms. One of the best things that FLP farms did to improve worker conditions was to give workers gloves so that they no longer had to use their bare hands to strip the thorns from roses.

"Honestly, I was embarrassed that I didn’t think about the people who grew my roses before,” Kennedy admits. “And I was shocked to learn that there were no U.S florists who had cared enough or been pressured by their clientele to join the FLP. And what does it cost? $93 a year. I didn’t think twice.”

"I mean, that’s why you become a florist – because you care.”

At least two corporate supermarkets in the Pittsburgh area have carried intermittent supplies of Fair Trade flowers, but K.S. Kennedy stands alone in his exclusive commitment to the Fair Trade label. Kennedy hopes to change this by encouraging other florists in Pittsburgh and across the United States to follow his lead in joining the FLP.

To complement your Fair Trade flowers, K.S. Kennedy carries a fun array of locally-based gifts, the most unique selection of greeting cards on the North Side, and an unmatched aura of positive vibes that stems (pun intended) from Kennedy’s always-positive attitude.

KS Kennedy, Distinctive Floral, Gift & Gourmet, 860 Western Ave, Pittsburgh, 412-322-ROSE (kkennedy256@earthlink.net)

Rosebud Fine Food Market and Deli reviewed

Not a bad grocery, but a terrible sled

On March 18, Downtown Pittsburgh welcomed Rosebud Fine Food Market and Deli, its first grocery store since 1994.

On March 19, Mr. Dish was called for jury duty.

After several hours of sitting next to a older woman with horrifying dandruff, Mr. Dish was not selected to serve and began walking home to Dish’s North Side headquarters. Knowing the larder lacked foodstuffs, Mr. Dish decided to poke his head into Rosebud.

As a dedicated carnivore, he was pleased by the selection of Silver Star brand meats. The deli, featuring Boar’s Head cold cuts was pleasing as well. Mr. Dish grabbed a couple packages of pork chops and a rump roast and then turned his attention to the vegetables.

It was at this point he was saddened. The green beans were limp. Open for just a day and selling desiccated beans! The horror! Much of the remaining produce was in a similarly unpleasant condition, aside from the potatoes and mushrooms Mr. Dish acquired.

On the plus side, the roast and chops turned out to be delicious and Rosebud features a raft of organic products as well as the little odds and ends (such as paper products, various and sundry beverages, some fresh fruit, garbage bags, etc.) that one might need but be reluctant to travel to a suburban Giant Eagle to obtain.

The prices seemed fair, especially considering the downtown location. The employees were quite pleasant.

One disappointment remains, though. It was raining quite steadily, so Mr. Dish asked the friendly employees for plastic bags. He was told that in an effort to be environmentally conscious, such bags were not available and he had not packed his canvas sacks for jury duty. Paper it was.

After strolling through the rain, Mr. Dish was nearly back at the office when a bag burst, subjecting his potatoes to a refreshing dip in the gutter.

But, there’s no use crying over moistened potatoes and one can be sure that Downtown residents, workers, and the folks in the neighborhoods surrounding Downtown will be glad to have Rosebud within their reach.

The market, at Seventh Street and Fort Duquesne Boulevard in the Encore on 7th apartment building, is open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.

Scoop du Jour

A little food news to chew

900 Cafe & Lounge (pictured) on Western Avenue in Allegheny West (next door to the Modern Cafe) is open.

From their MySpace page:

900's Lounge has a full-service bar and dining area that caters to a wide variety of cuisine. The bar features outdoor seating which lends itself to a romantic atmosphere for those that enjoy a tranquil moment. Arrive early to ensure you get the treasured hideaway cove-seating by the fireplace. With your hot chocolate in hand, enjoy the aroma of fresh baked pastries and other decedent items. The bar and cafe are smoke free but with our comfortable outdoor patio allows smokers the ability to enjoy everything we have to offer.

900 will feature art by local Pittsburgh artist on bi-monthly basis.

Open daily 6 p.m.-2 a.m.

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Benkovitz Seafood now serves breakfast.

The “Breakfast at Benkovitz” menu includes a seafood bake, seafood scrambled eggs and seafood breakfast burritos, all featuring crab and shrimp. Meals include sides of bacon, homemade roasted potatoes and multigrain toast. Muffins, Danish and croissants also are available, including lox on croissants, with cream cheese.

Breakfasts can be served to eat in or to “grab ‘n go.” Hot coffee is free during breakfast hours, no purchase necessary.

Benkovitz, at 23rd and Smallman streets, is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. till 6 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. till 5 p.m. Free parking available. Phone: 412-488-FISH.

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New Moon, an Asian fusion restaurant near PNC Park has closed. Business was slow to pick up, despite positive reviews.

Ribilicious, indeed

Wilson's BBQ remains spectacular

Listen, Dish knows that Wilson's BBQ, at the corner of Buena Vista and N. Taylor in the Mexican War Streets, has been open for a very long time. Dish also knows that many people, including representatives of national, glossy magazines, have written about its meaty charms.

Nevertheless ...

Dish hadn't been by Wilson's in a while and, on Thursday, the Dish pantry was bare (the basic components of food were available, but there was no actual "food"). So, Wilson's. So, pork spareribs.

(Column intermission: Do you know why they're called spareribs? Do you? Well, it's not because they're an "extra" part of the animal. Rather, because they're "spare" in terms of the quantity of meat attached to the bone. It's like this, spare as in not lavish, abundant, or excessive.)

In any event, the ribs themselves were excellent--tender and smoky, largely due to the fruit tree wood Mr. Wilson uses in his hand-built oven. But what makes Wilson's a worthwhile ribbery is the sauce. That hot (very hot) sauce is the perfect blend of heat and flavor. A tomato-based concoction, its heat is enough to engender a bead or two of sweat on the brow, but there's a rich and slightly sweet undercurrent that caresses the not-quite-ignited palate.

In short, Mr. Wilson, you must bottle this stuff. Dish will be back for the ribs, but we'd also truly love to have a gallon of your hot sauce available for coating just about everything we cook at home when the larder is not bare.

Modern-ized

An old tavern renewed

Photo by Frank Kownacki. Click image for larger view.

"The Modern Cafe," located on Western Avenue in Allegheny West, has long been a fine place to enjoy an adult beverage with its cheap, cold drafts, red vinyl booths, fine sound system and commendable jukebox (though it is digital). In the 1990s, the Modern's retro charm caught the lens of the filmmakers who committed Michael Chabon’s novel “Wonder Boys” to celluloid but, thankfully, it hasn't been swarmed with Roller Derby hipsters or tourists in need of a good slumming.

On Steelers Sundays, the place is a rest stop for fans in need of a boost on the way to or from their cars. And for a while, Karaoke packed the place with off-key revelers. The Modern has always gone quietly about its business, never suffering from an identity crisis. It is what it is, a solid neighborhood bar that just so happens to be super cool.

In the coming days, the Modern will gently introduced some small, but significant, changes. In addition to a sampling of fried fare, co-owner Dean Zotis will offer panini sandwiches until closing. Zotis owns The Little Deli down the block and delivers take-out lunch orders to the Modern. Coming soon—as soon as the panini press he ordered comes in—he'll offer grilled sandwiches into the evening.

A growing selection of microbrews is also on tap as well as is a jazz night, an endeavor he's cooking up with Muriel's, the fine restaurant  down the street. Zotis will also welcome Muriel's diners who need a place to wait for a table. When your table is ready, Muriel's will call the Modern.

Neighborhood imbibers welcome this news as the Monterey Pub in the Mexican War Streets is becoming more of a restaurant than a bar. The increasing popularity of the Pub is making it difficult for beer-soaked regulars to cop a squat and booze away the evening in comfort. The Pub now takes reservations for large parties, and on many nights you must put your name on a list to get a booth in which to enjoy a beer. Good for the Pub, bad for the genteel neighborhood wastrel.

The Pub is also banning smoking come the end of March. In a way, Dish is OK with this as the decision was made by ownership, not the state. On the other hand, both halves of Dish smoke, which makes us less inclined to patronize a business that makes us less than welcome.

So, the Pub's going modern and, thank heavens, the Modern's going just a little pub.

862 Western Ave Pittsburgh, PA 15233 (412) 321-4550

Rotten tomatoes tossed

The Eagle flies anew

Trash bins filled with expired foodstuffs littered the aisles of the Cedar Avenue Giant Eagle yesterday, day one of the corporate takeover.

Business-suited Giant Eagle employees walked around the store asking customers what improvements they’d like to see. One customer replied, “Have you got an hour?”

Outside the store, another North Side resident witnessed large Dumpsters filled with rotten produce (pictured). An employee told him that the corporation will hire all new suppliers and vendors.

The takeover is a giant relief to longtime customers of the once independently owned store who had to sift through cartons of milk to find one that hadn’t expired. Floors were filthy and often shelves were layered with dust.

Giant Eagle, Inc. is also conducting a survey to determine if the store is viable for a mini Market District.

Indie Giant Eagle goes corporate

Dingy North Side supermarket may see change

According to Giant Eagle spokesman Dan Donovan, Bill and Ethel Quinlan, the owners of the independently operated Cedar Avenue Giant Eagle supermarket located at 318-320 Cedar Avenue, have decided to retire from the retail business and transfer the operations of their store to Giant Eagle, Inc. The Cedar Avenue supermarket will become a corporately owned location at 6 p.m. on Saturday, Feb 2.

Area residents have long complained about the poor conditions of the store and quality of food.

The Quinlans have operated the Cedar Avenue location under the Giant Eagle banner since February 1990. All approximately 60 store employees will have the opportunity to transfer to the corporately owned Cedar Avenue store.

Manteca sale on again

Reese releases plan to neighbors

Photos by Frank Kownacki

North Side resident Henry Reese, co-founder of the City of Asylum/Pittsburgh, is expected to finally purchase the troubled Manteca bar located at 1410 Monterey St. in the Mexican War Streets. Reese, a Sampsonia Way resident, balked at purchasing the property last year, leaving neighbors frustrated. A nusiance bar task force has been in place and Zone 1 detectives were collecting testimonies from neighbors affected by violence emanating from the bar.

Reese declared his future intentions for the Manteca and an adjacent building in a letter that he slipped through Monterey mail slots yesterday. The letter, along with a liquor license application posted on the front of the bar, affirms the impending demise of the sometimes violent bar. Update 3/13/08: Shots fired outside the bar

He thanked residents for their patience in the never-ending waiting game.

He calls his newly formed limited liability corporation "Ripen" a name chosen in the "hope that it can spur a surge of good things on the transformation of the Monterey Jacksonia corner begun by the Mattress Factory." The MF is located around the corner from the bar on Sampsonia Way, next to many City of Asylum owned properties that were rehabbed for visiting writers. The MF owns a building on the corner of Jacksonia and Monterey that is used for gallery space.

It is also the spot of a drive-by shooting last summer where the intended victim was seen running into the Manteca.

Reese plans to "create a complex with a bar-restaurant-bookstore and literary related activities." He will establish a "space for poetry, fiction readings, intimate theatre, small scale music and workshop spaces, etc."

His personal goal is to form a place "where all have access to ongoing cultural activity that can inspire and change lives." Reese also hopes to create a source of income to continue the City of Asylum project.

Details still being worked out, Reese wrote. No project schedules are in place at this time. Earlier, Reese purchased two properties north of the Manteca to be used as parking for Ripe. The homes were destroyed, upsetting some neighbors who say that city zoning regulations prohibit the property from being used for parking.

Update 3/13/08:Shots fired outside the bar and how city and state official's ignored a judge's warnings about the bar 13 years ago.

New cafe to serve the North Side

Hoi Polloi cafe to open in Allegheny West

Photos by Frank Kownacki

Jessica Burgan, 25, and Sandra Telep, 27, met almost seven years ago while attending the University of Pittsburgh. After having lived in Washington, D. C. for the last five years or so where they worked for non-profit organizations and in restaurants and coffee shops, they decided to return to the Burgh and open a café.

“We love the city and were both really committed to ending up here,” said Telep. “So when we realized that we were at a point where we wanted to put down some roots, we started making plans to move back.”

They returned to Pittsburgh in May and while house hunting they found the North Side a good fit for their personal and business needs and wanted to become part of its revitalization. They chose a building on the corner of Galveston and North Avenue in Allegheny West, a structure that included restaurant space on the first level and living space above. Remnants of the previous restaurant were stale and outdated so, with financing from the Northside Community Development Fund, the couple began the laborious make-over.

“We were so excited to see how much progress Pittsburgh had been through in the time we'd been away,” said Telep. “The North Side made sense because it's a close knit community that supports small local businesses and is on the verge of so many new projects, not to mention it's still reasonably affordable.”

Hoi Polloi will offer coffee/espresso drinks, fresh juices and smoothies and a limited menu of soups, sandwiches, salads, and a special or two. Between wielding table saws and hammers, they’ve been scouring thrift stores and IKEA to strike the right balance for an eclectic décor.

Telep said they aren't aiming to be a five-star restaurant, but more a place with quick, easy, wholesome food. The menu will be vegetarian, but everyone should be able to find something to suit their taste (even dedicated carnivores), she said.

“The truth is, even though we have some experience, we are basically flying by the seat of our pants and learning as we go,” said Telep. “Still, we're optimistic and really grateful for the support we've received so far. Allegheny West Civic Council wrote us a letter of support, the Beleza Community Coffeehouse folks offered their help and have shared their own opening horror stories and Terra Jones [of Amani International Coffeehouse & Café] was really sweet and welcoming."

Burgan and Telep are gunning to open for the Allegheny West Christmas Tour on Dec. 8.

Follow the café’s progress on their blog.

Above: Telep (left) and Burgan pose behind a power tool.

A new bean in town

Peet's perks Pittsburgh

The coffee Mr. Dish is consuming costs $50 a pound. It is excellent. Mr. Dish is much, much swanker than you.

"Swanker?" you say. "Perhaps. But this Dish fellow is not smarter. Who the hell would pay that kind of scratch for coffee."

Au contraire mon frere. Mr. Dish didn't pay a dime for the half pound of Peet's Panama Esmeralda Geisha he brewed this morn'. He and the missus had been invited to the Strip District's Eleven by Peet's people for a "cupping" at which many fine coffees were paired with three Eleven-produced desserts (chocolate-caramel candy bar, banana cream pie, and blackberry tart, all divine).

To curry favor, the Peet's rep sent the Dishes home with 8 ounces of the Esmeralda Geisha and another 12 ounces of Peet's Sumatra. It worked. Dish is that cheap. (Also we really liked the coffee.)

So why were Peet's "coffee educator" Erica Hess and Big Burrito (institutional papa of Eleven) corporate chef Bill Fuller being so nice to the Dishes? Well, as regards Fuller, he loves Peet's coffee and is a regular mail-order client. Hess was there to herald Peet's arrival in the Pittsburgh market.

The California-based coffee roaster opens few of its coffee shops outside the west coast. Peet's freaks only option was to mail order their beans. In the last month, Peet's has arranged to sell its delicious beans in the region's Giant Eagle supermarkets.

Here's the rundown on the three coffees Dish tasted at Eleven.

* The Panama Esmeralda Geisha. Strong but clear flavor with citrus tones. Very fragrant.

* The Sumatra. Mighty.

* The Major Dickason's blend. Flavorful yet mellow. Kinda soothing, actually.

So, the Geisha was spectacular, alright. But why so expensive? Well, the beans are grown in one tiny area high in the Boquete region of Panama, so there's not much of it. When coffee roasters came across the stuff, they found it amazing. In 2007, only 215 50-pound sacks of the stuff were produced. Peet's got 50 of them.

One of the things that makes Peet's Peet's is that they roast no coffee before its time. Their fancy new Bay Area roasting plant receives orders, roasts the requested batches and sends them out the same day. Roasted coffee is not warehoused by Peet's. For this reason, Hess used the word "fresh" no fewer than 1,382 times during Dish's tasting.

Founder Alfred Peet, the "grandfather of specialty coffee" who died in August, would have it no other way. Peet tutored Starbucks in the early 70s and the Seattle owners considered themselves kindred spirits with Grandpa. Now the two chains are considered rivals, even though Peet's focus is retail, not coffee bars.

High quality + limited availability = costly. Simple, right?

Dish, as impressed as we are with Peet's, had to inform Hess that we must remain loyal to our local shop, Beleza. Dish can only be rented. It cannot be bought.

For more on Peets, go to www.peets.com

Chocolate factory coming to the North Side?

New neighbor for the Garden? Sweet.

Owners of a prominent Upstate New York chocolate factory were in town over the weekend for a look-see at a building on West North Avenue on the North Side. The large building is located next to the Garden Theater and part of a cluster of buildings the Urban Redevelopment Authority of Pittsburgh (URA) hopes will attract new businesses.

The chocolatiers, who Dish will not name at this time, were extremely interested but apprehensive about renovation costs. But, they said, they had taken a chance on their present location --a city that has gone through an impressive revitalization -- which proved to be a smart business move for them and their community.

Their factory supplies private label and custom chocolates to upscale department stores and grocers (including Whole Foods). A Pittsburgh location would include wholesale as well as a retail shop.

Keep fingers crossed. Dip them in chocolate for extra luck.

Welcome to progress

East Allegheny mural unveiled

Photos by Frank Kownacki. Click images for larger views.

Scaffolding holding up local artist Dave Edwards came down today, unveiling his latest work of public art.

The mural, part of the North Shore Glass Mural Project in conjuction with the Children’s Museum, is located on the corner of East Ohio and Cedar in Deutschtown on the North Side. The North Side Leadership Conference coordinated the funding along with the Elm Street Community, URA and others.

According to the Pittsburgh Celebrates Glass website, “This project has several aims, primarily to develop a family oriented district in Pittsburgh. The museum has chosen family-friendly places such as The Mattress Factory, the National Aviary, the Carnegie Science Center, the Andy Warhol Museum, the New Hazlett Theatre and Artist Image Resource. Dave Edwards was selected by the National Leadership Conference from a pool of other artists and designers, and he has great plans for the project. The mural features nine crests, each representing various cities in Germany and Switzerland. Edwards said the stained glass and backdrop silhouette of a piano player work together to convey the feeling that the context of the mural is nighttime.”

The mural is 99.5% complete and community logos still need to be added in the next few days. The mural is 3,000 square feet and is 60' or five stories at the tall side. Edwards applied about forty gallons of paint onto the very rough and thirsty brick and mortar wall of the Park House. He worked alone for nine weeks including weekends.

Edwards said the experience drew myriad reactions from passing neighbors.

"'That motherf----er is always on that wall" Shut up man, that motherf----kin boy can paint!" said the man in the park to his friend. I'm 45 years old with two kids in college so being referred to as a boy (along with the other colorful words) made me smile."

"I was visited almost on a daily basis by many older folks from the neighborhood who expressed their heartfelt appreciation that "such a beautiful picture " was being painted. Another elderly man noted that "your mural fits in... it looks like it belongs here." When I heard that I thought I might me doing something right."

The mural could be a sign of progress on the troubled East Ohio Street, which now boasts a new art gallery and, coming soon, “Bistro to Go.”

A ribbon cutting ceremony is scheduled for June 20 at 6:30 p.m.

The Dish on Dish: Muriel's

The queen of Allegheny West

Mr. Dish is a committed mumbler. Knowing this, he should have taken greater care to enunciate when trying to order the Cornish game hen.

"I'll have the ga(mumble, mumble) hen," said he.

The waiter, James, looked at him, looked at Mrs. Dish, looked back at him, looked back at Mrs. Dish, then back to the mister again.

"What?" James, a tall and pleasant fellow, asked.

"Um," muttered Mr. Dish, "the game hen. The hen."

"Did you say gay hen?" asked Mrs. Dish. James smiled a bit.

"No, game hen, the game hen. Game, I said," Mr. Dish replied. "The hen's sexuality makes no difference to me. What goes on in the barnyard stays in the barnyard. I don't care if the damn thing drove here in a Subaru with a rainbow sticker. I want the game hen."

And with that out of the way, dinner at Muriel's began.

First, the interior of the converted row house: pastel blue, yellow, seafoam green, black framed prints and large Victorian windows that give it an airy feel. We didn't get to see the garden patio as it was raing cats, dogs and other four-legged animals last night.

Accompanied by surpassingly mediocre bottle of Rabbit Ridge zinfandel (don't blame Muriel's, it's BYOB), Mr. and Mrs. Dish began their repast at the newish Western Avenue dining establishment with and Rosalita's potatoes. What the Dishes seemed to be dealing with, and please forgive them if they've gotten the name wrong Rosalita's potatoes. What the Dishes seemed to be dealing with here were mashed taters dotted with bacon crumbles, wrapped in thin dough and fried.

After the first bite, what they knew they were dealing with were little, golden brown nuggets of flavor. Truly simple and truly superb. And a sign of things to come.

The house salads that followed came with greens, bleu cheese (eschewed by Mr. Dish, a committed anti-fromagian), sunflower seeds, dried cranberries and an unusually flavorful vinegarette. Neither Dish could put the palate on exactly what made this dressing a cut above the ordinary. Suffice it to say, it was.

Then the entrees. Mr. Dish's hen came and he, as one must when presented with smoky meat on the bone, manually tore it to shreds in a most gruesome fashion. He only chewed because he wanted to get every molecule of flavor out of his bird. The accompanying peach salsa (given a kick with jalepeno peppers and a few other ingredients) and a nutty soy sauce treated fried rice not only created a fine balance to the smoky fowl, but they were nearly divine in their own right.

Mrs. Dish opted for the special: Mushroom-stuffed ravioli topped with Parma sweet sausage and a chipoltle cream sauce. Mrs. Dish found it as Mr. Dish found the hen, though she used a fork rather than her fingers as did her less-civilized spouse. The fairly unadorned asparagus on the side was so enjoyed by Mrs. Dish that she took the opportunity to criticize Mr. Dish's asparagus cooking abilities right in front of owner and chef, Stephen. The sting of approbation would have hurt more had Mr. Dish not still been enjoying the hen still lingering on his palate.

Dessert was bread pudding with a whiskey sauce for the missus and a soft, spongy cake with cream and berries for the mister. Superlatives fail. And most impressively, both deserts, like all on the Muriel's menu, are made in-house, a rarity these days.

And, um, the coffee's damn good too.

Mr. and Mrs. Dish settled the tab, went home and slept the sleep of the well-fed and well-pleased. Muriel's is a delightful addition to the lovely historic corrider along Western Avenue.

To make dinner reservations, read Muriel's story and check out the brunch, lunch and dinner menus, go to www.muriels.net.

Scoop du Jour: Muriel's Garden

Dish is hearing good things about this lady in Allegheny West.

While Dish has yet to dine at Muriel's Garden, the buzz on this place has been very positive. A limited, but delightful menu we're told. Here are this week's specials. If you go, let Dish know what you think.

Muriel's will offer a different Fixed Priced Dinner (along with their normal ala carte menu), for $18.95

Thursday 5/24
Pork Tenderloin with an Ancho Chili Honey Sauce, roasted potatoes; $16.25

Friday 5/25 & Saturday 5/26
Grilled Flat Iron Steak w/ a red wine reduction sauce, potato and vegetable; $21.95

Seared Ahi Tune w/ pineapple fried rice $16.95

Muriel's Garden offers a salad/sandwich menu along with a regular dinner menu. They are working with Laura Winter aka "The Garden Lady" to offer an edible flower workshop and brunch on Saturday 6/16/07.

Anyone attending a function at the Hazlet Theater, Aviary, or the Children's Museum can show their ticket before or after the event and receive a complimentary appetizer of "Rosalita Potatoes" developed by the chef's apprentice Tim Richardson.

Features:

* Daily Soup & Sandwich special for lunch as well as dinner specials.
* A New Orleans style bread pudding with a whiskey sauce has been added to the dessert menu.
* Muriel's welcomes folks for dessert and cappuccino in the afternoon and evening.
* Free wireless internet.
* Complete menu is available for take out...call 412.322.0476.

Muriel's accepts reservations for dinner. Call 412.322.0476, or send an e-mail to eat@muriels.net

Closed Memorial Day.

Bistro planned for E. Ohio

Second business to open on sketchy street

Last February Dish got word that a new catering venture was in the works for East Ohio Street on the North Side. Now, only three months later, progress is budding.

Above is the first draft of the exterior of "Bistro to Go." BTG will be operated by local caterer Nikki Heckman, who will also offer cooking classes and meals-to-go.

"The lease is signed, plans are in progress, designs are in the works," said Randy Strothman, a consultant on the project.

In April, Fein Gallery opened on the 500 block. Bistro to Go will be the second ray of hope this year for the neglected thoroughfare.

Click on image for larger view.

Nuisance bar closing in two weeks

Zoning snafus over

Months ago, Dish informed its readership that the Mantika, that nuisance of a tavern on Monterey Street that isn't the Monterey Pub (you know, the place with no sign and bullet holes in the steel door), was about to change ownership.

Dish painted you a picture of a lovely little bistro with outdoor seating and a bookstore/cafe next door in a neighboring building. Dish was a tad premature.

According to a source who spoke with the Mantika's owner Sunday, the conclusion of this neighborhood soap opera is nigh. The owner told our little birdie who told Dish that the deal will be closed two weeks hence and that Ralph Reese and Diane Samuels of Sampsonia way will be able to begin to execute their plan.

Zoning issues were to blame for the delay, according to the owner.

Various and sundry items from inside the bar were being tossed in a Dumpster yesterday including ladies' handbags and barstools (photo right).

A sign posted on the door yesterday announced an upcoming closing party (photo above). The sign has since been removed.

Photos by Sarah Higgins

Scoop du Jour: Caffeine & Cupcakes

The best cupcake: Dozen? CoCo? No. No.

Also: North Side Coffeehouses

Photo by Frank Kownacki

Amani International Coffeehouse & Café (507 Foreland St., North Side, 412-537-5510) is hosting "Midnight Moods Cafe" from 9 p.m. to midnight this Friday featuring Tony Campbell (saxaphonist) & Friends. Complimentary wine for the first hour; entertainment begins at 10; $5 cover. On Monday, April 30, meet candidates running for office: Robin Miller (City Council); Cathy Bubash (Judge); Heather Arnet (School Board); Joe Williams (Judge). Call for start time.

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Beleza Community Coffeehouse (1501 Buena Vista, North Side, 412-321-4210) has introduced a Happy Hour every Monday through Thursday from 5 to 7 p.m. Any latte is now $1 cheaper. But the coffee and good company are always rich. Try their cinnamon buns (pictured above).

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Last December, the press slobbered over the cupcake craze that iced Pittsburgh. Dozen Cupcakes (pictured left) in Squirrel Hill and CoCo's Cupcake Café in Shadyside became the Ali/Fraizer fight of frosting. Who had the better selection, the creamier frosting? It all became very tiresome, especially since there are other cupcakes in the Burgh that are far more toothsome.

If you haven't yet, try the cupcakes from Food Glorious Food (5906 Bryant St, Highland Park, 412-363-5330) and you might be less enchanted by The Big Two. Sold only on Saturdays at their little bakery, these cupcakes are extremely moist and, unlike Dozen’s, the buttercream frosting actually tastes like buttercream, not just sugar. Inside is a velvety injection of vanilla buttercream that flows like warm caramel. FGF’s bakery opens at 10 a.m. and offers all sorts of tarts, cakes, and yummy French- sounding desserts. They also sell kitchen items, offer cooking classes and cater. Call to make sure cupcakes are available.

Shabby Chic

New ventures bring hope to downtrodden street

Photos by Frank Kownacki

A new art gallery opened last weekend in East Allegheny neighborhood on the North Side. The art space is co-owned by Stuart Epstein and Bruce Klein, who also owns the adjacent Bernies Photo and Digital. The gallery is located on the less than fashionable East Ohio Street.

Opening this Sunday and continuing to April 27, the gallery will host the Fiberarts Guild of Pittsburgh’s “Focus on Fiberarts” exhibition. The gallery will feature mixed media exhibits by Pittsburgh artists.

Another venture is planned for E. Ohio Street. Nikki Heckman, who works with non-profits catering large events, has announced plans to open a business that will offer take-out, meals-to-go and cooking classes.

Fein Gallery, 519 East Ohio St, North Side, 412-321-6816

Marching forth?

Progress reported on North Side nuisance bar

Things are finally moving forward on the demise of the bullet-riddled Manitka bar at 1410 Monterey in the Mexican War Streets. Sources say that an architecture firm has been hired to help birth a purposed café and bookstore and that firm’s lackeys have been seen taking measurements.

Susan Meadowcroft, the Howard Hanna realtor who brokered the deal, is now an agent at Coldwell Banker. No word yet on who will represent the property. Sources say despite the glitch, progress will be visible by summer.

Owner Henry Reese intends to transform the Mantika into a cafe with a liquor license and outdoor seating. He also plans to renovate the neighboring house at 1406 Monterey (1408 Monterey is a vacant lot that will accommodate the cafe's outdoor seating) into a bookstore. Apartments and office space are planned above these businesses.

Neighbors have been on pins and needles since last July, when the sale of the troubled bar was announced. Since then there have been numerous incidents inside or on the sidewalk involving the police, most recently a stabbing on February 21.

Stay tuned for further developments.

Nifty ladies feed the North Side

Aunt Marie to the east, Grandma Muriel to the west

In East Allegheny, a sassy aunt became the matriarch of the former James Street Tavern. Sassy Marie's stands in honor of owner Stephanie Britton's Aunt Marie, who Britton describes as having a lust for life and a love of music.

Next week, a former flapper and jazz lover will preside over her grandson's new Allegheny West restaurant called Muriel's. Co-owner Stephen Esherick named the restaurant after his adventurous grandmother, Muriel Black (pictured right), who died last year. Esherick and co-owner Arthur Lo Casale have managed or owned Tambellini’s Wood Street Grill, Throckmorton’s, Vista International Hotel, Arthur’s Upstairs at the Landmark, Café Stephen B’s and Robert E Lee’s.

Muriel's will open Monday, March 12.

Muriel's will be BYOB and feature an outdoor cafe (pictured below). Hours will be Monday-Friday for breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday for brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.; and Wednesday-Saturday for dinner from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. There will be a $2 per person corkage fee.

The dinner menu will feature two to three evening specials.

Muriel's, 856 Western Avenue, Allegheny West, 412-322-0476

Strip gets soul

"Reverend" Brenda Franklin, local jazz and gospel singer, to open soul food restaurant in Strip District next week

For months it was difficult to tell what type of business was planned for the little storefront, steps away from the 16th Street Bridge. Newspapers shielded the windows then in the weeks following, tiny clues, albeit confusing, began to appear. Three jazz album covers were placed on a shelf just inside the window. Maybe the Latin record store, which one was located there, might reopen.

Then a chubby chef figurine appeared, the kind often seen in pizza shops. A pizza parlor/record store? A record store/pizza parlor?

The mystery was solved earlier this week when a sign for "Big Mama's House of Soul" appeared.

Seems fitting, even if by coincidence, that Franklin would open a business in a former music shop. She has performed with celebrated Pittsburgh-based jazz drummer Roger Humphries, signing gospel and jazz.

Rondell Franklin, who will be working alongside his grandmother, said that Franklin will be preparing dishes from 100 year-old recipes.

"These recipes have been in my family for a long time," said Rondell. "My grandmother also lived in North Carolina and many of the dishes are southern-style."

One of Franklin's signature dishes will be "Big Mama's Soppin' Sauce," of which Rondell said, "All you need is a slice of bread and you'll love it."

Dishes will include country fried chicken, ribs, fish, and homemade desserts including pineapple upside down cake, sweet potato pie and chocolate chip cookies.

Big Mama's will be take-out and delivery only. Hours will be Monday through Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Franklin is toying with the idea of hosting jazz performances on Sundays.

Opening date to come.

Big Mama's House of Soul, 1603 Penn Ave., Strip District, 412-471-2910

Mrs. Dish (aka Colleen Van Tassell) also wrote about Big Mama's House of Soul for the City Paper. Go here to read.

North Side gets Giant Eagle

Minus rotting produce

North Siders, aka Prisoners of the Putrid (independently owned) Giant Eagle on Cedar Street, will be pleased as punch to hear that a new, albeit small, Giggle is slated for construction next year.

The URA has approved the sale of two acres on the North Side end of the West End Bridge to develop a mini Giant Eagle by next year. Projected to be between 13,000 to 15,000 square feet, it will be larger than Giant Eagle Get-Go stores and approximately the size of a retail pharmacy. The store will sell produce, prepared foods and feature a pharmacy, drive-thru window and gas pumps.

Petrol, Epsom Salts and fresh figs. Finally.

Comparison shopping

What does a cool half-mil get you on the North Side?

A newly built, three-bedroom Loft or a historical three-story firehouse.

Which is the better buy?

Amani Cafe wraps neighborhood in warm embrace

Inside Terra Jones' new North Side coffeehouse

Pittsburgh native Terra Jones stands behind the counter of her recently opened East Allegheny coffeehouse with pride, enthusiasm and a smile to match.

The University of Pittsburgh grad has created a neighborhood gathering place in East Allegheny that is comfy and warm and lives up to her motto: "Uniting cultures with one cup." Amani which means “peace” in Swahili, draws all ages and races, not just the typical hipster looking for free wireless.

The coffeeshouse, located a block from East Ohio Street, is tucked into a neighborhood in desperate need of a meeting place where you can relax with friends over coffee, tinker on your computer or grab a salad and read the paper. With a gallery space adjacent to the cafe, it's roomy enough to accommodate larger groups but without the feel of a cavernous Starbucks. Revolving art exhibits and live jazz are in the works for the larger space.

Amani offers fair trade coffee, teas and a menu that includes soups, salads and wraps.

Jones, with assistance from the Northside Community Development Fund, has the focus and drive needed for a small business. She's created a hip place out of an empty space that most developers might overlook.

She has every reason to smile. As will you.

Try the Grilled Chicken Caesar wrap!

Amani International Coffeehouse & Café, 507 Foreland St., North Side, 412-537-5510

Hump Day Hash

New restaurant, new catering biz and a call for artists/musicians on the North Side

A Dish scout noticed this sign that reads "Muriel's a new restaurant opening soon" in a window once belonging to Roxolana's Garden on Western Avenue in Allegheny West. Inside were ladders and men with toolbelts. Dish can't imagine too many changes to the interior as it was quite lovely. But the question remains, "What's cookin' Muriel?" Dish awaits info from sources deep inside the Health Department as to its future. But if you have any scoop, please pass it along.

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On the other side of Brighton Road, the Inn on the Mexican War Streets/R. H. Boggs Bar/Acanthus restaurant (aka beds/booze/bites) is calling for musicians to perform in the courtyard this summer. Bar manager Ron Beers (what a fine name for a hooch slinger) in in the beginning stages of organizing a 12-week live entertainment schedule. If you, or some talented friend of yours, is interested in performing contact Beers at 412-779-1969. He's also interested in displaying art as well.

Beers, in his infinite wisdom, is not limiting his menu to those godawfulfakemartinis thatgirlswhosayawesomefivetimesinasentance drink (Dish's words, not his). Dish hears that Beers perusing classic cocktail recipe books and is refining his potent potables menu to include such fine potions as Sidecars, Manhattans and Champagne Cocktails. He'll get you well oiled in that Auntie Mame kinda way. As only he can.

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Moving down to Allegheny East, Dish hears that a new catering venture in the works on East Ohio Street. Nikki Heckman, who works with non-profits catering large events, is exploring several properties there. She plans to offer take-out, meals-to-go and cooking classes. She'll provide more details once the location is finalized.

If you have some tidbits for Hump Day Hash, please email Dish at editor@pittsburghdish.com.

The Dish on Dish: Sassy Marie's

No first night jitters here.

by Michael Vivar

We here at Dish are a mistrustful lot, almost aggressively suspicious of that which is new and unknown. This is especially so when the new and unknown is replacing such a beloved and venerable institution as the James Street Tavern. Thus, it was with a certain degree of wariness that Mr. Dish, Mrs. Dish, Katie, and I approached the North Side’s newest eatery, Sassy Marie’s.

Our caginess was relieved as we were greeted by a familiar face, Cynthia Petno (pictured right), a staple of the Pittsburgh service industry and a phenomenal caterer (see the sidebar advertisement for Word-of Mouth Catering). Though we were previously acquainted, we noticed that her warm attention to others brought a smile to many in the place. Other than warm bodies, the tone of the restaurant hadn’t changed much since its prior incarnation. The booths and bar of rich, dark mahogany were a sight for sore eyes. The only noticeable discrepancy was the paint scheme, muted, lending a warmer atmosphere.

Be warned as the place is BYOB for another week. We had been forewarned and had forearmed ourselves with a bottle of white Bordeaux obtained at The Wine Thief, our favorite wine shop in New Haven, Conn. (screw you PA Liquor Control Board). To start, Mr. Dish and I had the Seared Big Eye Ahi ($11), which was sesame crusted with a drizzle of soy sauce and a mango slaw. We were both impressed by the quick searing and rare nature of the preparation as many tend to overcook ahi. I thought a bit of a too heavy hand was used with sea salt, but that might have been an anomaly and Mr. Dish didn’t mind. In any case, whatever perceived saltiness was dulled by the pleasant sweetness of the mango slaw. The ladies had the coconut chicken ($6), which was served in strips, covered, in a coconut breading, and served with a spicy orange plum dipping sauce. They were taken aback by the generous portion, but could not get enough of it. There was a hint of a curry spice in the dipping sauce which complemented the coconut flavor of the chicken very nicely.

For dinner, Katie had a wild mushroom ravioli ($13.50), served in a mushroom-infused vodka-tomato cream. The ravioli was good, if a bit pedestrian, stuffed quite full of portabella mushrooms. It was, however, the sauce that made the dish stand out. Rich and creamy with a dark yet sweet flavor, the ravioli were merely a vehicle for this outstanding sauce.

Mrs. Dish was served the jumbo lump crab cake ($18). At first blush, it almost tasted as if the chef had fallen into the trap of adding too much cake to the crab. But, for some reason, it worked. The fresh crab meat’s texture and sweet flavor set off the sumptuous spicing of the bread crumbs like mortar in bricks rather than the haphazard over-compensation for sub-par seafood. The fact that the meal came unencumbered by an additional starch was noted and appreciated.

I opted for a 14 oz ribeye ($20) with a dash of their signature “Sassy Steak Dust.” Normally, I cast down any such rub a blasphemy unto the steak gods, but this particular flavor combination enhanced what I found to be a too-thin (but sufficiently bloody and marbled) steak. The accompanying mashed potatoes turned out to be a somewhat dull afterthought, but perfectly steamed, crisp asparagus almost convinced me that I was being a moderately healthy bastard.

Mr. Dish had approximately the same meal, “Our Signature Cowboy Steak,” also a ribeye, but a full 6 oz heavier than mine (bone in), garnished with chipotle chimichurri and crispy onion straw ($28). Not for the first time, I was looking at Mr. Dish’s piece of meat with envy. It seemed that his was a thicker, more vigorously tasty piece than mine, but we Filipinos often have such worries.

Chef Rich Horn (pictured right), who has worked extensively in kitchens throughout the state, plans to feature theme dinners with wine flights. Horn is very discriminating about choosing choice cuts of meat, and it shows.

Sassy Marie’s first impression makes it seem rather worthy of the previous venue’s vaunted pedigree. Its menu may give the impression that it’s trying very hard to separate itself from said prior establishment, but its diligent work is not for naught. In addition, its extensive bar menu might do well in drawing the masses away from more entrenched watering holes with stagnant menus in the neighborhood.

Sassy Marie's, 422 Foreland St. at James Street, 412-246-0355; Smoking available at the bar. Website to come.

Sassy Marie's to open tonight

New North Side restaurant ready to go

Sassy Marie's, once the legendary James Street Tavern, will fling open its doors today at 4 p.m. The restaurant will be BYOB this week only, until the liquor license arrives.

"We'd hoped it'd be here on time but it's somewhere driving around the city," laughed co-owner Stephanie Britton. She originally thought today's opening was tentative but was able to meet the deadline.

The restaurant will only be open for dinner this week (4 p.m. to 10 p.m.), but will be in full operation starting next Monday.

"A week from today we'll have a full lunch and dinner menu and full bar service," said Britton. By then the liquor license will be well in hand.

Sassy Marie's, 422 Foreland St. at James Street, 412-246-0355; Smoking is available at the bar.

Photo by Frank Kownacki

Once James, she's now Marie

Former James Street Tavern to open anew as Sassy Marie's

Photos by Frank Kownacki

The legendary James Street Tavern on the North Side will reopen as Sassy Marie's under the ownership of North Sider Stephanie Britton and members of her family. A soft opening (meaning no balloons, searchlights, or fireworks) is tentatively planned for Monday, Feb. 19.

Britton has be involved in the restaurant business, but Sassy Marie's is her first family venture. She will work alongside her uncle and brother. Britton's family are longtime North Siders who live only blocks from each other.

The 82-seat restaurant features 17 tables and five booths. The structure was upgraded to meet building codes, but Britton said the interior "will look pretty much the same." As will the building's jazz foundation.

"There has been a lot of response to keeping jazz performances," said Britton. "So we'll have jazz on Friday nights and on Saturdays, we'll do some other different types of music."

Sassy Marie's will be open for lunch at 11 a.m. daily. Dinner will start at 4 p.m. Britton described the menu as "fusion American," which, along with traditional dishes, will offer tapas. "We're trying to stay away from Italian food because in Pittsburgh, there are so many good Italian restaurants." A lighter menu will be offered at the bar. After three months or so, she plans to open the downstairs area and offer a full bar menu.

All this is excellent, but the question remains: Who is Marie and why is she sassy?

Britton decided to name the restaurant after a family member but wasn't comfortable with naming it after a relative who is still alive. "I thought about naming it after my grandmother who is 92," said Britton. "But I decided to name it after her sister, Marie."

Both her grandmother and her great aunt were logical choices as namesakes for a bar/restaurant. "My grandmother sang in a girl band at nightclubs downtown," laughed Britton. "And my Aunt Marie would be in the audience, all dressed up and sipping on a cocktail."

Marie went to church three times a week and her husband owned a little speakeasy, said Britton. She loved church life and night life.

"She was sassy," said Britton. "Sassy Aunt Marie."

Sassy Marie's, 422 Foreland St. at James Street, 412-246-0355

Mayor, URA announce announcements to be announced

Media swarm outside Garden Theater for announcement.

Photos by Frank Kownacki