Pittsburgh Dish

Florist delivers more than roses

A favor becomes a delicious cause

Kerry Kennedy is the North Side's milkman. Even he's not sure how he got the job.

Kennedy's Allegheny West floral and gift shop has become an unwitting hub for pick up and delivery for Brunton's chocolate milk (the finest chocolate milk in Christendom). Somehow  Kennedy has become the chocolate coated milkman for neighbors who drop off their empty glass returnable bottles to his Western Avenue shop for refills.

"I told a couple of people how much I love the chocolate milk and was going to the store for more and offered to pick some up for them," laughed Kennedy. "Then, one day I found myself carrying 12 bottles to the car!"

Kennedy will fetch the chocolate milk and store it in his flower cooler for pick-up. There they they will safely sit, guarded by the gardenias.

Kennedy doesn't mind grabbing a few extra bottles on his trips to either Patty's farm market in Aspinwall or Janoski's Farm Market in Clinton. But he'd like to see a North Side market or coffee shop carry the chocolate milk so more neighbors can experience its udder joy.

"I'd carry it but it might be kind of strange supplying flowers and...milk," laughed Kennedy. "Maybe someone might see this and consider selling it!"

James A. Brunton Jr., Brunton Dairy's owner, died suddenly last week on the farm and Kennedy thinks finding a retail outlet on the North Side is a small tribute to a farm family who have been in business for more than a century.

"Their chocolate milk is like sipping melted ice cream," said Kennedy. "More people should be able to enjoy what the Bruntons have created."

If interested in providing Brunton's milk for the North Side, email Dish (editor@pittsburghdish.com) or call Kennedy at 412-322-ROSE.      

Big Mama on the small screen

House of Soul in the Strip featured on CBS

Dish was the first to report on Big Mama's House of Soul, now she's caught the attention of the The Early Show on CBS. This first installment of Mama's restaurant "makeover" aired this morning and there are more segments to come over the next few days.

Congrats Mama!

The Dish on Dish: 900 Cafe and Lounge

An early report

by Michael Vivar

Despite a better-than-middling location and a fabulous space, eateries and drinkeries that attempt to ensconce themselves in Allegheny West's 900 Western Avenue tend to have the life spans of mayflies. For a short while it was “too cool for you” True, a scene to be seen gay club, and then for an even shorter while it was “are we cool ye… oops. We’re closed” Nuance. With this in mind, Katie and I tried to dine at the 900 Café and Lounge before they had to scrape the logo from the window and leave under cover of night.

The décor hadn’t changed much since its previous iterations. Except for the lighting being more family friendly and the lack of shabby queens affecting Kate Hepburn, the place has maintained its minimalist style with amusing accents of Jackson Pollock-esque art on the walls (this will, apparently change from month to month). We were seated at a high table on barstools surrounded by an amusing pastiche of neighborhood folk and squealing CCAC girls.

The menu isn’t what you’d call extensive. Having been the evening of Good Friday, Katie was expecting some sort of fish special, but was disappointed. There wasn’t even a vegetarian entrée option. So she opted for a mushroom crottin appetizer to which our waitress generously added a sweet potato side dish at no extra charge when we were dismayed by their lack of land-meat free choices. Katie very much enjoyed the mushroom dish. I admit, I only had a bite, but I thought the use of button mushrooms lent too strong of a flavor and there was too much of a struggle between this and the flavor of the cheese. Her sweet potato side, though, was met with unanimous applause. The sweet potato was lightly mashed or pureed, giving it a not-too-smooth texture and was sprinkled, on top, with a sort of bread crumb sparingly sweetened with brown sugar. This portion’s mild deliciousness was a nice respite from the palate struggle of the mushroom crottin.

As my religious tendencies tend toward non-practicing, I ordered the braised beef brisket for my dinner. The strips of beef came apart enticingly with a gentle prodding of my fork, but I found it to be a little to dry. The accompanying barbecue sauce, however, was absolutely heavenly – sweet without being too cloying. It also came with a sweet potato side and some lightly seasoned tomatoes. My sweet potatoes, unlike Katie’s, were unadorned and fairly unspectacular, and I often found myself eyeing her dish enviously. The tomatoes, while very ripe and sweet, had a tart quality that clashed with the aforementioned barbecue sauce.

Altogether, the experience at the 900 Café and Lounge was relatively plain but, I have to admit, intriguing. The owner/chef was very exuberant in asking our opinion of the meal and, when comments were made, he seemed to genuinely take them into account. This is in stark contrast to the cold shoulders given by previous iterations of 900 Western. So I hope to be able to return and see what else is in store for this newly friendly and welcoming venue.

900 boasts a full-service bar and outdoor seating with heat lamps for smokers.

Modern-ized

An old tavern renewed

Photo by Frank Kownacki. Click image for larger view.

"The Modern Cafe," located on Western Avenue in Allegheny West, has long been a fine place to enjoy an adult beverage with its cheap, cold drafts, red vinyl booths, fine sound system and commendable jukebox (though it is digital). In the 1990s, the Modern's retro charm caught the lens of the filmmakers who committed Michael Chabon’s novel “Wonder Boys” to celluloid but, thankfully, it hasn't been swarmed with Roller Derby hipsters or tourists in need of a good slumming.

On Steelers Sundays, the place is a rest stop for fans in need of a boost on the way to or from their cars. And for a while, Karaoke packed the place with off-key revelers. The Modern has always gone quietly about its business, never suffering from an identity crisis. It is what it is, a solid neighborhood bar that just so happens to be super cool.

In the coming days, the Modern will gently introduced some small, but significant, changes. In addition to a sampling of fried fare, co-owner Dean Zotis will offer panini sandwiches until closing. Zotis owns The Little Deli down the block and delivers take-out lunch orders to the Modern. Coming soon—as soon as the panini press he ordered comes in—he'll offer grilled sandwiches into the evening.

A growing selection of microbrews is also on tap as well as is a jazz night, an endeavor he's cooking up with Muriel's, the fine restaurant  down the street. Zotis will also welcome Muriel's diners who need a place to wait for a table. When your table is ready, Muriel's will call the Modern.

Neighborhood imbibers welcome this news as the Monterey Pub in the Mexican War Streets is becoming more of a restaurant than a bar. The increasing popularity of the Pub is making it difficult for beer-soaked regulars to cop a squat and booze away the evening in comfort. The Pub now takes reservations for large parties, and on many nights you must put your name on a list to get a booth in which to enjoy a beer. Good for the Pub, bad for the genteel neighborhood wastrel.

The Pub is also banning smoking come the end of March. In a way, Dish is OK with this as the decision was made by ownership, not the state. On the other hand, both halves of Dish smoke, which makes us less inclined to patronize a business that makes us less than welcome.

So, the Pub's going modern and, thank heavens, the Modern's going just a little pub.

862 Western Ave Pittsburgh, PA 15233 (412) 321-4550

The Dish on Dish: Mio

An Aspinwall delight

by Michael Vivar

I have to admit that I tend to avoid Aspinwall as much as I can. I'm sure it's of no fault of Aspinwallers (Aspinwallites? Aspin...something?), but there's something about the area that makes me feel like a shabby hobo. So it was with a bit of trepidation and fear that shouts of, “Untouchable!” would ring in my ears when we decided to go to Mio Kitchen and Wine Bar.

Though the facade is fairly unassuming and would make one think the interior would be cramped, the dining area was actually quite spacious. We went on a Wednesday night so it wasn't very crowded, but I noticed that, with their table configuration, the place could get cramped during a Friday/Saturday dinner rush. Wrought iron adornments everywhere gave an air of elegance without being ostentatious.

To start, Katie had a Belgian endive salad ($12) with toasted walnuts, gorgonzola, orange, and sherry vinegar. The bitter endive, fragrant gorgonzola, the vinegar's bite, and the walnut's crunchiness were an absolutely fabulous flavor and texture combination. The only slight misstep was that the orange wasn't as ripe as it could have been so it lent a hint of too much acidity, but these less than perfect bites were few.

When I'd last checked their website, there were veal sweetbreads in the first course. I was disappointed that it had been replaced with equally cruel foie gras ($14), but this turned out to be an immoral delight. They were served in dainty little pink slices and were as smooth as fresh-churned butter without an overpowering liver taste. Within the slices were grains of sea salt that provided little bursts of flavor. It was accompanied by a circle of fried pastry drizzled with Nutella and a slice of stewed pear. The sweet crispy dough was a perfect complement to the goose liver. However, the pear slice was so cloyingly sweet that it masked the understated richness of the foie gras and remained mostly untouched.

Katie chose, as her main course, the braised short ribs ($32) served over creamy barley and sweet peas in a horseradish and porccini essence. The meat was prepared very simply, which was all that was necessary. Its tender deliciousness needed no fussy additions. The horseradish and porccini essence gave a dark bite to the overall dish.

My entree was the roasted Elysian Fields lamb ($39). It was a braised shoulder cassoulet that reminded one of an extremely decadent stew with just the right combination of fat and lean. It was presented over a flageolet bean puree. This merely provided an accompanying texture and did not add much to the flavor, which was fine as the cassoulet stood excellently on its own.

The restaurant boasts of an accomplished pastry chef. We found, though, that the dessert course we shared was a bit forgettable – literally. We've been attempting to wrack our brains to remember what we had just a few evenings ago, but have come up with nothing. I don't think this necessarily speaks ill of the dessert, but highlights how good the rest of the meal was.

For all the hesitance I felt about dining in Aspinwall, Mio's luxurious atmosphere and superb food quelled any doubts.

Mio Kitchen & Wine Bar
225 Commercial Avenue
Aspinwall, PA 15215
412-781-3141
http://www.mio-pgh.com

The Dish On Dish: Joseph Tambellini Restaurant

A family tradition hits the spot

by Michael Vivar

You can't swing a sweet chariot around town without hitting a dining establishment associated with the Tambellinis. The family maintains a stellar reputation in Pittsburgh as various branches of the tree have gone to flourish in their culinary endeavors. Thus, it was with high hopes that Katie and I went to the newest family offshoot, Joseph Tambellini's in Highland Park.

Walking into the restaurant felt like walking into someone's home. Though, at first glance, the tinted mirrors and proximity of the bar to the dining area reminded one of a 1970s key party, it seemed to work without feeling tacky. I feel that something more could be done to dampen the acoustics in the place because we could hear conversations taking place across the room.

It took some time for us to put in our initial orders because the wait staff was shorthanded. Throughout the evening, we were also attended to by the maitre d' and even the bartender. Don't take this as being indicative of the normal state of affairs, though, because we came in the Sunday after Thanksgiving. I think they were expecting people to still be picking through leftovers and not populating an almost full first floor. Also, what our waitress lacked in experience she more than made up for in friendliness. I think that a few months will find her navigating from kitchen to dining room with the best.

For our appetizer we shared their “greens and beans,” ($7) a heavenly mixture of braised white beans and escarole with Panchetta ham, garlic, olive oil and some Italian sausage thrown into the mix. It could have used less olive oil as after a few prodding forkfuls the whole thing coagulated and the flavors, especially that of the ham, became less distinguishable. What made the dish stand out was the sausage, a densely packed and spicy affair that went with the escarole and white beans beautifully.

Each entree came with a salad and pasta course. The former was chef's salad with the lovely surprises of crisp and crunch provided by the addition of sprouts and honey roasted peanuts. The latter was farfalla pasta with a veal reduction marinara sauce. The sauce was fantastically rich with chunks of veal that melted in the mouth. We were unable to finish our servings for fear of spoiling our appetites for the main course.

Katie ordered chicken marsala with white and shiitake mushrooms ($19). The chicken was so tender a knife wasn't even needed. It brought forth images of a large swarthy fellow beating the thing with a hammer until it was tenderized into submission. The firmness of the lightly sauteed mushrooms was a nice textural complement. It was doused in a darkly flavored marsala sauce that was so tasty for once I didn't mind the overly generous hand of the saucier.

I had the veal chop Saltimbocca ($36). It was a hearty 16 oz. bone-in cut basted with au jus. Tender and studded with pearls of fat, I couldn't stop eating even though I knew I was gorging myself. This was accompanied with spinach sauteed in, again, a bit too much olive oil but the oil they used was light with a hint of sweetness so I didn't mind at all. Within the spinach were bits of crackling garlic that teased the taste buds.

Before going out, Katie's diabetes monster was gurgling and making her grumpy so she was ready to eviscerate whatever restaurant in which we dined. Fortunately, our spectacular meal calmed the beast and the night turned out splendidly. Highland Park may be out of the way for some, but Joseph Tambellini's makes it a worthy destination for a meal out.

Joseph Tambellini Restaurant, 5701 Bryant Street, Highland Park, 412-665-9000

New cafe to serve the North Side

Hoi Polloi cafe to open in Allegheny West

Photos by Frank Kownacki

Jessica Burgan, 25, and Sandra Telep, 27, met almost seven years ago while attending the University of Pittsburgh. After having lived in Washington, D. C. for the last five years or so where they worked for non-profit organizations and in restaurants and coffee shops, they decided to return to the Burgh and open a café.

“We love the city and were both really committed to ending up here,” said Telep. “So when we realized that we were at a point where we wanted to put down some roots, we started making plans to move back.”

They returned to Pittsburgh in May and while house hunting they found the North Side a good fit for their personal and business needs and wanted to become part of its revitalization. They chose a building on the corner of Galveston and North Avenue in Allegheny West, a structure that included restaurant space on the first level and living space above. Remnants of the previous restaurant were stale and outdated so, with financing from the Northside Community Development Fund, the couple began the laborious make-over.

“We were so excited to see how much progress Pittsburgh had been through in the time we'd been away,” said Telep. “The North Side made sense because it's a close knit community that supports small local businesses and is on the verge of so many new projects, not to mention it's still reasonably affordable.”

Hoi Polloi will offer coffee/espresso drinks, fresh juices and smoothies and a limited menu of soups, sandwiches, salads, and a special or two. Between wielding table saws and hammers, they’ve been scouring thrift stores and IKEA to strike the right balance for an eclectic décor.

Telep said they aren't aiming to be a five-star restaurant, but more a place with quick, easy, wholesome food. The menu will be vegetarian, but everyone should be able to find something to suit their taste (even dedicated carnivores), she said.

“The truth is, even though we have some experience, we are basically flying by the seat of our pants and learning as we go,” said Telep. “Still, we're optimistic and really grateful for the support we've received so far. Allegheny West Civic Council wrote us a letter of support, the Beleza Community Coffeehouse folks offered their help and have shared their own opening horror stories and Terra Jones [of Amani International Coffeehouse & Café] was really sweet and welcoming."

Burgan and Telep are gunning to open for the Allegheny West Christmas Tour on Dec. 8.

Follow the café’s progress on their blog.

Above: Telep (left) and Burgan pose behind a power tool.

Scoop du Jour

A plea, a pint and food on the move

Dear Dish Readers,

I'm hoping you can help me out with a problem I've had for years here in Pittsburgh: the quest for a great bagel. I'm a native New Yorker living in the 'burgh, and I grew up on H&H bagels, probably the best bagels on the planet. When I first came out here, I was extremely disappointed with the quality of bagel selection (and dumbfounded as to how a true Jewish bagel never made its way out to Pittsburgh). For the last four years, I've been having my relatives back home freeze and ship real bagels to me from NYC (I kid you not). I think it's about time to try and find one decent place around here that makes a true bagel.

Thank you,
Andrew

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In The Night Kitchen, part of Pittsburgh's growing nomadic food scene, will be at Break Even Coffee this Friday and Saturday evening. For more information visit In the Night Kitchen's blog. Read about the local traveling food movent, written by yours truly, Mrs. Dish, in the next issue of the City Paper which hits the stands tomorrow.

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From Scott at East End Brewing Company:

2007 East End Brewing Charity Open House

Tickets go on sale SATURDAY NOVEMBER 10th at Growler Hours!

SATURDAY, DECEMBER 8th:

Afternoon Session: 12-3pm
Evening Session: 5-8pm
Hoity-toity VIP Session- a.k.a. "Bigs, Bugs, Bottle Conditioned": 4-5pm This is a collection of long lost East End Brews from my personal stash, some sour ales, and some vintage bottles - and maybe a surprise or two. Tickets for this session may only be purchased WITH an Evening Session ticket, and will cost you 15 bucks more. Space and in some cases, BEER is limited.)
Advanced Tickets are $35. After 5pm on December 1st, tickets are $45.

This gets you...

An East End Brewing Pint Glass
Tastings of at least 10 East End Beers on tap, on cask, and in bottles - including two brand new beers.
"THREE" our bottle conditioned Triple Anniversary Ale
Session Ale #8 - to be named that day
Great food from Pittsburgh area restaurants
Bigelow Grille
Church Brew Works
Harris Grill (amazing how they continue make great food without a restaurant!)
Kelly's Bar and Lounge
Mad Mex
Piper's Pub
Sharp Edge Restaurants
Access to raffles, gift baskets, and even beer to go! (Yes, we'll somehow still manage to be open for Growlers 12-5pm that day)
TICKETS ARE AVAILABLE AT THE BREWERY - there is also chance of some on-line ticket sales, but we're still working on that. So don't count on anything... come get them at the brewery while the gettin's good!

I fully expect the second session to sell out first, and with any luck, we'll fill the first one too, and raise some nice money for PLEA. 100% of the money you pay for your ticket will go to provide respite support to families of kids with special needs.

Milking it for all it’s worth

Local moo juice is udderly spectacular

Pennsylvania’s pretty big time in the dairy world, but pales in comparison to Wisconsin (says so right there on their license plates “America’s Dairyland”). So, when a local milk-maker makes the grade at the World Dairy Expo in Madison, Wisc., Dish feels obligated to stop and smell the dairy air.

(Ed.: No further milk/diary puns will be forthcoming. Dish apologizes for letting it go this far. Also, Dish knows this piece is a bit pr-intensive, but we like local food and don’t mind honoring the people that produce it.)

Turner Dairy Farms of Penn Hills (estd. 1930) netted the coveted “First Place, White Milk” award, bestowed by the Wisconsin Dairy Products Association at the annual Championship Dairy Products Contest, at this year’s expo. This is the third time in the past four years Turner achieved this distinction, based chiefly on taste, with other factors such as sediment, bacteria count (low=good), and packaging. Turners does not use milk from cows fed artificial growth hormones.

Turners buys milk only from farmers within a 75-mile radius of its Penn Hills hub and employs 150, mostly in the manufacturing and delivery departments. The dairy’s marketing coordinator, Nicholas Yon, says Turner Dairy prides itself on using local milk, local labor and in being committed to the value of eating and drinking locally-produced food.

“We continue to try and educate anyone who will listen about the importance of supporting local agriculture and local farms,” he said. “Being able to literally shake the hand of the farmer whose lettuce or tomatoes or milk you’re consuming is an extremely powerful act.”

The Dish on Dish: Folino's

Folino's Ristorante is molto bene (very good, for yinz English-only speakers)

by Yvonne Hudson

Dish has been on a bit of a restaurant tear lately. We're on a mission to try out all restaurants -- new and established -- in our fair city.

That brings us to a South Side establishment called Folino's Ristorante, which opened in 2005 after operating for years as Young's Tavern (the locals still call it Young's). You may recall it's where B-list bombshell Sienna Miller threw a hissy fit and was thrown to the curb. Folino's celebrates the incident with t-shirts.

The intimate Italian eatery featured a piano player tickling the ivories with Sinatra and other classics while a Dish staffer and a companion perused the menu. We ordered a nice Pinot Grigio and ordered Bruschetta (we like Bruschetta, OK? We realize that's a recurring theme in our restaurant vists, but deal with it).

When our entrees arrived, we were not disappointed. A wonderful blackened Ahi tuna with fresh veggies arrived looking sumptuous and an entrée of shrimp scampi tossed in white wine sauce did not disappoint. The waiter was fantastic, and the atmosphere was relaxing.

What we especially liked about Folino's was that even though it's located on the South Side, it's not sterotypically "South Side" and hosts diners in jeans, college students, more conservative guests and a variety of ages.

The food is the draw, and it's worth the headache of traversing the Carson Street traffic.

Folino's, 1719 E. Carson St., 412-488-8108.

Greek fest opens

Annual event draws hundreds to the North Side

White tents are set up on the side lot of Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (302 West North Avenue, North Side, 412-321-9282) in preparation for the hundreds expected to attend the church's annual five-day Greek Festival which started yesterday.

Details:

The 35th Annual Holy Trinity Greek Food Festival: August 29-September 2

Hours: Wed.-Thu.: 11am - 8pm; Fri.-Sat.: 11am-9pm; Sun. 11am-7pm

New Items: Souvkali Sandwich, Chicken ala Greco Salad, Greek Fries
Fax Orders: Accepted Wed.-Fri, 11am-1:30pm (Express Business Lunch)
Entertainment: Live Greek Band nightly starting at 6:00 p.m.
Greek dance show nightly starting at 6:30 p.m.
Church Tours: Offered daily (see schedule at Festival)
The Marketplace: Greek merchandise and food vendors under the tent.

Acanthus closed

North Side restaurant is again without a chef

Just one week after receiving a rave review in the City Paper, Acanthus restaurant has closed to the public and is only entertaining private parties for 12 or more.

Acanthus, located in the carriage house behind the Inn on the Mexican War Streets on the North Side, has had its share of kitchen woes since opening in December last year. While the meals have been consistently outstanding according to food critics, chefs have come and gone. Last week another chef departed and the restaurant is closed until further notice. The Library Bar, which was open to the public Thursday through Saturday, is also closed and will only be used for private parties, according to their website.

In February, a former bar manager who crafted a classic cocktail menu, attempted to launch a summer jazz night. After having success at finding interested musicians, the plan was never carried out, leaving many neighbors disappointed.

This month, owners of the inn and restaurant hung a banner in front of the Inn announcing they’d be open for lunch. The banner has since been removed.

Scoop du Jour: Hot off the grill

Wednesday recommendations: Kelly's Diner & Verdetto's

The Big Country Breakfast and the Mixed grille at Kelly's Diner

Hungry as a lumberjack? Hungover as Dean Martin on a Tuesday? Order The Big Country and a large Coke at Kelly's. This Brighton Heights spot will fix what ails you with three pancakes, three eggs, meat,  homefries and toast for $6.99.

Also try a Mixed Grille: four eggs scrambled with sausage, homefries, onions, green peppers & cheese. Also $6.99.

Kelly's serves breakfast all day, their bread is from the Breadworks, the staff is friendly and attentive.

(Owner Kelly Mehler and her family also own J & J's Family Restaurant & Catering in Mount Washington.)

Kelly's Diner & Catering

3053 Brighton Rd, North Side, 412-761-6072

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Beer-battered fish sandwich at Verdetto's

The fish was suitably flaky, much in the manner of the gentleman who consumed it. The batter held a hint of Iron (or, perhaps, it was the Iron City draft Mr. Dish consumed alongside his meal that did the trick), but didn’t overwhelm the delicate whitefish. The fries, seemingly handcut, were a treat. That little bit of skin left on the tater makes a big difference when it comes to deep-fried starchy goodness. Verdetto's beer is cheap, the atmosphere is pleasant, the bar is oak and the place is spotless.

Verdetto's Bar & Restaurant

814 Madison Ave., North Side, 412-231-7696

Open 7 days.

Cash Only! An ATM machine is on site.

Photo by Frank Kownacki

The Dish on Dish: Calico Jack's Cantina

Los crappos

by Julie Letsky

One recent weekday afternoon, some friends and I ventured to Calico Jack's Cantina, a new Mexican food-themed eatery just down the street from Grille 36 on the North Shore .

Bad move on our part.

Now, we aren't particularly picky people. Really, we aren't. Seriously.

But our dining experience was not one we'd care to repeat.

Though the restaurant was nearly empty, our waitress did not appear to take our drink orders for 10 minutes. Then, another 15 minutes passed before she appeared again to inquire about appetizers.

Moments away from starvation, we relented. We would, in fact, love a nosh. We ordered a little medley that included chicken wings, black bean taquitos and nachos with salsa.

Fifteen minutes later, out come our black bean taquitos and nachos with salsa. No wings. The waitress didn't recall hearing us order them, but she'd be glad to put the order in right away.

Well, considering 40 minutes of our Calico Jack's experience had already passed and we hadn't even gotten to the point of ordering entrees, we passed. We ordered (I ordered chicken and beef chimichanga's with cheese, guac and sour cream for $13) and waited for our food. Other items selected by our friends included a blackened chicken burrito with rice, shrimp fajitas and a carribean burrito.

The menu was not varied; mostly it featuring burritos, fajitas and chimichangas. Prices for appetizers ranged from $6 to $13 and entrees were reasonably priced, many under $13 or $14.

While we waited for our meals, we found something in the salsa that wasn't tomato or onion. We won't scare you with the details, because you may be enjoying a chimichanga right now and I'd hate for you to loose your lunch.

Since we saw neither hide nor hair of our waitress for another 10 minutes, we flagged down the manager. She was very apologetic and helpful and replaced the salsa. We were handed vouchers for a return visit. A highly doubtful prospect.

The food finally came. We were starving, so we scarfed it down in record time. It was okay, if not bland.

If you absolutely must visit Calico Jack's Cantina, keep in mind that it's a college bar masquerading as a restaurant by day.

And should you covet "Shake it like Shakira" contests and $2 Miller Lite specials, I know where you can procure a voucher or two.

The Dish on Dish: Muriel's Brunch

Michael Vivar, Dish's intrepid food reporter, swoons

I am aware that the Pittsburgh Family Dish already gave their opinion regarding Muriel’s diner, but I felt that the restaurant’s quality is such that it warranted the Asian Stallion of Food Criticism to briefly come out of hiatus and expound further on the place -- specifically its position as being poised to take the crown of “Sunday Brunch Queen of Pittsburgh.”

I admit that I was reluctant to try something new due to my short time back in the ‘Burgh and a desire to revisit the known quantity of one of my Sunday staples. It was Katie’s insistence that dragged me out of my brunchy womb of comfort. We arrived around 11 a.m., which I think was the perfect hour in the middle of this incessant heat wave. It allowed us to sit outside and not be overburdened by the harsh heat of the sun. The pleasantness of the day was compounded by complimentary mimosas being placed in our hands. While it wasn’t exactly a replacement for my beloved brunch ale, the briskly perfect mix of champagne and orange juice invigorated the senses.

Delving straight into a main course, Katie ordered Eggs Pomodoro ($6.95). It consisted of two poached eggs each served over breaded and grilled tomato, both individually given a dollop of hollandaise sauce. The eggs were just the way she liked them, with the yoke cooked solid only half-way through and a center that was slightly runny. The hollandaise sauce was extremely fresh and the cook used it merely as a complement to the other flavors without slathering the stuff on. The light breading on the ripe tomato gave a body to the meal that made the included side of toast a bit superfluous.

I had Buckwheat Pancakes ($5.95) with two slices of bacon (add $1). Those who make buckwheat pancakes walk a fine line when trying to please people who are fanatic about the dish. Too much buckwheat and it turns out too dry and mealy. Too little and you merely get something little better than Bisquik. The Muriel’s preparation walks this line with the grace of an old vaudevillian. They were hearty enough to feel satisfying between the tongue and teeth while being moist and yielding after that first chew. My only modification to the meal would have been to add one more slice of bacon or one egg. I do, however, submit to having a heightened protein preference with my meals than some.

The quality of raw materials with which the restaurant starts, along with a sense of love that permeates the atmosphere and preparation of the dishes, makes Muriel’s an absolute joy.

Muriel’s recently won first place in the American cuisine in a recent P-G dining poll. A little birdie tells Dish that a full review will appear in their Weekend Section on Thursday. Hah, Dish got there first. Eat that Big Media.

Little book the toast of the town

Dish chats with one of the authors of "Where We Like To Eat n' At"

Sitting in a wooden booth at the Monterey Pub on the North Side last night, Gail Nesbitt Jones beamed as she answered questions about her new book, "Where We Like To Eat n' At." The 50-something mother of three was there with family and friends as Dish "staff" mobbed her as if she were a rock star. Since the book came out only a few days ago, she and co-author Marsha Dugan Kolbe have become unwitting celebrities in Pittsburgh.

The book, which features 57 neighborhood restaurants and watering holes, came about on a lark. Nesbitt Jones, of Mt. Lebonon and Kolbe, of Highland Park, enjoy galavanting through Pittsburgh neighborhoods in search of local fare. After many calories consumed and tabs paid, they decided "why not?"

They teamed up with illustrator Lani Challburgh Walker whose delightful drawings accompany each location. The slim volume took off and the mothers became local media darlings.

"I never thought this would happen," laughed Nesbitt Jones. "I'm going to be on the radio, whould've thought that!"

The Monterey Pub is featured in the book. "This is the kind of place that defines a neighborhood restaurant," she said. "This is one of the many reasons I love this city."

The $10 book is available at local bookstores and can be purchased on their website.

The Dish on Dish: Jerome Bettis' Grille 36

We try not to insult an icon

Photos by Frank Kownacki. Click for larger views.

The waitress, wearing the Grille 36 lady waitstaff uniform—a yellow tank top covered by a black tube top, which, let Dish assure you, is a combo flattering to no one—approached the table on the patio outside Jerome Bettis' new restaurant. She proudly told Mr. and Mrs. Dish and their Dining companions that the beer list featured 32 options, "Just like the number 32 Jerome wore."

This kind of error surpasses the inexcusable; and, perhaps, rises to the blasphemous. Not only regarding Bettis, but His heroic predecessor, Franco Harris.

In any event, this snafu was a harbinger of things to come.

Sitting in the evening sun betwixt Heinz Field and PNC Park, Mr. and Mrs. Dish ordered draft beers to slake their thirst. They tasted as though something foul had fouled the tap lines. These beers were sent back.

Mrs. Dish ordered a bottle of Yuengeling. That turned out fine. Mr. Dish ordered an Iron City. Out came an I.C. Light, which was sent back. About 10 minutes later, the proper beer arrived. It was consumed. Another of its kind was ordered. Out came an I.C. Light. It was sent back. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Dinner was ordered. The Dishes and their dining chums were somewhat surprised to find that a side salad was not included in the price of a pasta dinner. Needing greens, Mr. Dish dropped another $3.95 on the foliage, as did Pregnant Lady Buddy of the Dishes. The salad, let it be said, was fine

Entrees arrive. Mr. Dish's rigatoni with spicy sausage looked appealing. Sadly, the sauce was too sweet and too plentiful. 'Twas almost like pasta soup. A nice touch, though, were the whole spinach leaves interspersed in the sauce and pasta. The nice touch was ruined when Mr. Dish realized the kitchen had not been instructed to wash the leafy green before serving. Mr. Dish does not like his spinach gritty.

Impregnating Chum of Dish had a plain 'ol burger topped with cheese and a portabella mushroom cap. The burger was quality, though overdone by medium rare standards. No big deal, though, as ICoD was the first to join the clean plate club at the table of four.

Mrs. Dish had the ribs. An awful lot of ribs. When Mrs. Dish ordered, she was somewhat surprised that the waitress asked her how she wanted them done, assuming there was only one way to have them: Cooked. The sauce, sadly, couldn't be tasted, though the ribs themselves were juicy and meaty; which is just the way one wants one's juicy meat.

PLBoD enjoyed her macaroni and cheese. Though a bit on the cold side when it reached table side, the creamy/crunchiness was pleasing to the palate. Mr.Dish would comment more on PLBoD's dish, but he hates cheese and wouldn't really look at the stuff, let alone taste it.

Complaints aside, Grille 36 has redeeming qualities aplenty. The view and the outdoor seating area make the trip to the river's edge worthwhile. Also, it seems that at the most basic level the quality of the food is more than adequate, meaning that once the kitchen and waitstaff work the kinks out, the overall appeal of the victuals may approach the charm of the atmosphere.

For now, Grille 36 is a pleasant enough place with decent enough food. It can, and likely will, be better. But even if relative perfection is never approached, the retired Mr. Bettis can rely on the patronage of customers such as the guy in his 50s, clad in a replica Bettis jersey (expecting a discount, perhaps?), lounging in a chair on the patio lost in a reverie of number 36's glory days.

Scoop du Jour: Muriel's Garden

Dish is hearing good things about this lady in Allegheny West.

While Dish has yet to dine at Muriel's Garden, the buzz on this place has been very positive. A limited, but delightful menu we're told. Here are this week's specials. If you go, let Dish know what you think.

Muriel's will offer a different Fixed Priced Dinner (along with their normal ala carte menu), for $18.95

Thursday 5/24
Pork Tenderloin with an Ancho Chili Honey Sauce, roasted potatoes; $16.25

Friday 5/25 & Saturday 5/26
Grilled Flat Iron Steak w/ a red wine reduction sauce, potato and vegetable; $21.95

Seared Ahi Tune w/ pineapple fried rice $16.95

Muriel's Garden offers a salad/sandwich menu along with a regular dinner menu. They are working with Laura Winter aka "The Garden Lady" to offer an edible flower workshop and brunch on Saturday 6/16/07.

Anyone attending a function at the Hazlet Theater, Aviary, or the Children's Museum can show their ticket before or after the event and receive a complimentary appetizer of "Rosalita Potatoes" developed by the chef's apprentice Tim Richardson.

Features:

* Daily Soup & Sandwich special for lunch as well as dinner specials.
* A New Orleans style bread pudding with a whiskey sauce has been added to the dessert menu.
* Muriel's welcomes folks for dessert and cappuccino in the afternoon and evening.
* Free wireless internet.
* Complete menu is available for take out...call 412.322.0476.

Muriel's accepts reservations for dinner. Call 412.322.0476, or send an e-mail to eat@muriels.net

Closed Memorial Day.

Farmers' Market opens today

The North Side Farmers' Market swings into season at 3:30 this afternoon in East Park.

Dish would like to hear what a crisp $20 bill gets you. Send us your list and recipes for your bounty. (Then send us the food, Dish is on a tight budget!)

Happy hunting.

Scoop du Jour: Caffeine & Cupcakes

The best cupcake: Dozen? CoCo? No. No.

Also: North Side Coffeehouses

Photo by Frank Kownacki

Amani International Coffeehouse & Café (507 Foreland St., North Side, 412-537-5510) is hosting "Midnight Moods Cafe" from 9 p.m. to midnight this Friday featuring Tony Campbell (saxaphonist) & Friends. Complimentary wine for the first hour; entertainment begins at 10; $5 cover. On Monday, April 30, meet candidates running for office: Robin Miller (City Council); Cathy Bubash (Judge); Heather Arnet (School Board); Joe Williams (Judge). Call for start time.

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Beleza Community Coffeehouse (1501 Buena Vista, North Side, 412-321-4210) has introduced a Happy Hour every Monday through Thursday from 5 to 7 p.m. Any latte is now $1 cheaper. But the coffee and good company are always rich. Try their cinnamon buns (pictured above).

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Last December, the press slobbered over the cupcake craze that iced Pittsburgh. Dozen Cupcakes (pictured left) in Squirrel Hill and CoCo's Cupcake Café in Shadyside became the Ali/Fraizer fight of frosting. Who had the better selection, the creamier frosting? It all became very tiresome, especially since there are other cupcakes in the Burgh that are far more toothsome.

If you haven't yet, try the cupcakes from Food Glorious Food (5906 Bryant St, Highland Park, 412-363-5330) and you might be less enchanted by The Big Two. Sold only on Saturdays at their little bakery, these cupcakes are extremely moist and, unlike Dozen’s, the buttercream frosting actually tastes like buttercream, not just sugar. Inside is a velvety injection of vanilla buttercream that flows like warm caramel. FGF’s bakery opens at 10 a.m. and offers all sorts of tarts, cakes, and yummy French- sounding desserts. They also sell kitchen items, offer cooking classes and cater. Call to make sure cupcakes are available.

Nifty ladies feed the North Side

Aunt Marie to the east, Grandma Muriel to the west

In East Allegheny, a sassy aunt became the matriarch of the former James Street Tavern. Sassy Marie's stands in honor of owner Stephanie Britton's Aunt Marie, who Britton describes as having a lust for life and a love of music.

Next week, a former flapper and jazz lover will preside over her grandson's new Allegheny West restaurant called Muriel's. Co-owner Stephen Esherick named the restaurant after his adventurous grandmother, Muriel Black (pictured right), who died last year. Esherick and co-owner Arthur Lo Casale have managed or owned Tambellini’s Wood Street Grill, Throckmorton’s, Vista International Hotel, Arthur’s Upstairs at the Landmark, Café Stephen B’s and Robert E Lee’s.

Muriel's will open Monday, March 12.

Muriel's will be BYOB and feature an outdoor cafe (pictured below). Hours will be Monday-Friday for breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday for brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.; and Wednesday-Saturday for dinner from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. There will be a $2 per person corkage fee.

The dinner menu will feature two to three evening specials.

Muriel's, 856 Western Avenue, Allegheny West, 412-322-0476

Strip gets soul

"Reverend" Brenda Franklin, local jazz and gospel singer, to open soul food restaurant in Strip District next week

For months it was difficult to tell what type of business was planned for the little storefront, steps away from the 16th Street Bridge. Newspapers shielded the windows then in the weeks following, tiny clues, albeit confusing, began to appear. Three jazz album covers were placed on a shelf just inside the window. Maybe the Latin record store, which one was located there, might reopen.

Then a chubby chef figurine appeared, the kind often seen in pizza shops. A pizza parlor/record store? A record store/pizza parlor?

The mystery was solved earlier this week when a sign for "Big Mama's House of Soul" appeared.

Seems fitting, even if by coincidence, that Franklin would open a business in a former music shop. She has performed with celebrated Pittsburgh-based jazz drummer Roger Humphries, signing gospel and jazz.

Rondell Franklin, who will be working alongside his grandmother, said that Franklin will be preparing dishes from 100 year-old recipes.

"These recipes have been in my family for a long time," said Rondell. "My grandmother also lived in North Carolina and many of the dishes are southern-style."

One of Franklin's signature dishes will be "Big Mama's Soppin' Sauce," of which Rondell said, "All you need is a slice of bread and you'll love it."

Dishes will include country fried chicken, ribs, fish, and homemade desserts including pineapple upside down cake, sweet potato pie and chocolate chip cookies.

Big Mama's will be take-out and delivery only. Hours will be Monday through Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Franklin is toying with the idea of hosting jazz performances on Sundays.

Opening date to come.

Big Mama's House of Soul, 1603 Penn Ave., Strip District, 412-471-2910

Mrs. Dish (aka Colleen Van Tassell) also wrote about Big Mama's House of Soul for the City Paper. Go here to read.

Amani Cafe wraps neighborhood in warm embrace

Inside Terra Jones' new North Side coffeehouse

Pittsburgh native Terra Jones stands behind the counter of her recently opened East Allegheny coffeehouse with pride, enthusiasm and a smile to match.

The University of Pittsburgh grad has created a neighborhood gathering place in East Allegheny that is comfy and warm and lives up to her motto: "Uniting cultures with one cup." Amani which means “peace” in Swahili, draws all ages and races, not just the typical hipster looking for free wireless.

The coffeeshouse, located a block from East Ohio Street, is tucked into a neighborhood in desperate need of a meeting place where you can relax with friends over coffee, tinker on your computer or grab a salad and read the paper. With a gallery space adjacent to the cafe, it's roomy enough to accommodate larger groups but without the feel of a cavernous Starbucks. Revolving art exhibits and live jazz are in the works for the larger space.

Amani offers fair trade coffee, teas and a menu that includes soups, salads and wraps.

Jones, with assistance from the Northside Community Development Fund, has the focus and drive needed for a small business. She's created a hip place out of an empty space that most developers might overlook.

She has every reason to smile. As will you.

Try the Grilled Chicken Caesar wrap!

Amani International Coffeehouse & Café, 507 Foreland St., North Side, 412-537-5510

Weis linked to PA slammer

Food loaf explains all

oMisbehaving Pa. county jail inmates served 'food loaf'

BROOKVILLE, Pa. -- Jefferson County's jail warden got a little tired of inmates throwing food despite repeated warnings not to, so he fought back.

Warden David Riley recently started feeding misbehaving inmates a food loaf, made up of all the offerings at mealtime mixed together and formed into a loaf.

"We microwave the food loaf before it is served," Riley said. "It's really not that bad."

Jails across the country commonly serve food loafs as punishment for bad behavior. Some jails don't use the daily meal offerings, but instead use a recipe that includes ingredients like wheat bread, beans, other vegetables and cheeses in order to make sure the inmate's diet meets daily nutritional guidelines.

Five days after offering the unique concoction, Riley said all food throwing stopped at his jail.

"I had one inmate tell me, 'Well warden, you broke me,'" Riley recalls. "It has had the desired effect."

Dish Sports Editor Jody DiPerna believes all leftover food loaf throughout the country (and parts of Canada) is shipped to Notre Dame's Coach Charlie Weis (pictured) for disposal.

Hump Day Hash

New restaurant, new catering biz and a call for artists/musicians on the North Side

A Dish scout noticed this sign that reads "Muriel's a new restaurant opening soon" in a window once belonging to Roxolana's Garden on Western Avenue in Allegheny West. Inside were ladders and men with toolbelts. Dish can't imagine too many changes to the interior as it was quite lovely. But the question remains, "What's cookin' Muriel?" Dish awaits info from sources deep inside the Health Department as to its future. But if you have any scoop, please pass it along.

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On the other side of Brighton Road, the Inn on the Mexican War Streets/R. H. Boggs Bar/Acanthus restaurant (aka beds/booze/bites) is calling for musicians to perform in the courtyard this summer. Bar manager Ron Beers (what a fine name for a hooch slinger) in in the beginning stages of organizing a 12-week live entertainment schedule. If you, or some talented friend of yours, is interested in performing contact Beers at 412-779-1969. He's also interested in displaying art as well.

Beers, in his infinite wisdom, is not limiting his menu to those godawfulfakemartinis thatgirlswhosayawesomefivetimesinasentance drink (Dish's words, not his). Dish hears that Beers perusing classic cocktail recipe books and is refining his potent potables menu to include such fine potions as Sidecars, Manhattans and Champagne Cocktails. He'll get you well oiled in that Auntie Mame kinda way. As only he can.

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Moving down to Allegheny East, Dish hears that a new catering venture in the works on East Ohio Street. Nikki Heckman, who works with non-profits catering large events, is exploring several properties there. She plans to offer take-out, meals-to-go and cooking classes. She'll provide more details once the location is finalized.

If you have some tidbits for Hump Day Hash, please email Dish at editor@pittsburghdish.com.

Scoop du Jour: Pie to die for?

Reader recommendations to woo pizza snobs (aka Dish)

We'd said it, you've read it (over and over again). Dish has standards when it comes to pizza (but not much else) that Pittsburgh has yet to reach. Lucky for Dish, readers continue their attempts to sway us. Here are the latest raves:

A fellow emigre from Connecticut emailed Dish to rave about Harry's Pizza (4133 Washington Road, Rt. 19, McMurray, 724-969-0444). He was so inspired he wrote a review on Chowhound:

Finally, a Pittsburgh pizza for CT transplants

Harry's in McMurray in Waterdam Plaza. I'm eating some right now and am ecstatic. Pittsburgh natives would probably not understand, but for all us transplants from the NJ/Boston corridor... this might well be the place you've been searching.

It was recommended to us by an employee who said it was simply the best pizza around. We asked "Why?" but she couldn't explain. On the way home from a long road trip, we found ourselves heading north on 19, so we called up and ordered a mushroom and sausage.

We arrived a few minutes ahead of the pie being ready. They offered us a free soda to drink while waiting. We opted for water. Then out of the corner of our eye, we saw a big, flat, ingredients-almost-to-the-edge pizza that, for the first time since moving here five years ago, we could say, "Now THAT looks like pizza."

We begin reading an article about the place... turns out it is a branch of Harry's from West Hartford, which at one point employed someone who worked the oven at the original Frank Pepe's. And that's what the pizza at Harry's looks like.

Upon looking at the menu, our jaw dropped. Not only did Harry's offer eggplant, zucchini and ricotta as possible toppings, but they offered a WHITE CLAM PIZZA. We know what we're trying next trip.

As to the taste, is it Sally's or Pepe's or Modern (pictured above and right)? No. They use a conventional pizza oven, not masonry. Thus, the pies don't have those classic scorch marks on the bottom of the crust like the New Haven palaces. The very outside edge of the crust doesn't bubble and isn't singed. Still, those are but minor points in the overall picture .

Here's what tonight's pie did feature:

A toothy crust, not soggy, not stiff, not cardboardy. You can taste the wheat.

FRESH sauteed mushrooms - and lots of them

Sweet, not hot sausage (we believe a traditional fennel/garlic variety)

Tomatoes (could be San Marzano, we didn't ask) instead of canned pizza sauce

Quality mozzarella used judiciously, not overwhelmingly

Thankfully we need to go down that way once a week for other reasons, so there will be a Harry's night once a week in our home*.

*Note: We still love Il Pizzaiolo, but that's an artisan pie at a different level with different expectations - but if Harry's had a brick oven, it might be a much closer call.

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From Sonny Amato:

Just checking out your pizza reviews (there are a lot of unacceptable pies in the 'Burgh) and wanted to suggest the family shop, Amato's Pizza (376 Butler St., Etna, 412 781-9789).

I don't work there or own any stake it in-- my uncle does and my grandfather did--but it's definitely worth a taste if you're sick of the cookie cutter pies with cheap ingredients around here.

Square shape, light and thin crust and good sauce (not overly sweet).

Anyway, just a suggestion if you're looking for a traditional place (there since 1954). Not a sit down--but I recommend eating at the counter.....

Enjoy.

The Dish on Dish: Sassy Marie's

No first night jitters here.

by Michael Vivar

We here at Dish are a mistrustful lot, almost aggressively suspicious of that which is new and unknown. This is especially so when the new and unknown is replacing such a beloved and venerable institution as the James Street Tavern. Thus, it was with a certain degree of wariness that Mr. Dish, Mrs. Dish, Katie, and I approached the North Side’s newest eatery, Sassy Marie’s.

Our caginess was relieved as we were greeted by a familiar face, Cynthia Petno (pictured right), a staple of the Pittsburgh service industry and a phenomenal caterer (see the sidebar advertisement for Word-of Mouth Catering). Though we were previously acquainted, we noticed that her warm attention to others brought a smile to many in the place. Other than warm bodies, the tone of the restaurant hadn’t changed much since its prior incarnation. The booths and bar of rich, dark mahogany were a sight for sore eyes. The only noticeable discrepancy was the paint scheme, muted, lending a warmer atmosphere.

Be warned as the place is BYOB for another week. We had been forewarned and had forearmed ourselves with a bottle of white Bordeaux obtained at The Wine Thief, our favorite wine shop in New Haven, Conn. (screw you PA Liquor Control Board). To start, Mr. Dish and I had the Seared Big Eye Ahi ($11), which was sesame crusted with a drizzle of soy sauce and a mango slaw. We were both impressed by the quick searing and rare nature of the preparation as many tend to overcook ahi. I thought a bit of a too heavy hand was used with sea salt, but that might have been an anomaly and Mr. Dish didn’t mind. In any case, whatever perceived saltiness was dulled by the pleasant sweetness of the mango slaw. The ladies had the coconut chicken ($6), which was served in strips, covered, in a coconut breading, and served with a spicy orange plum dipping sauce. They were taken aback by the generous portion, but could not get enough of it. There was a hint of a curry spice in the dipping sauce which complemented the coconut flavor of the chicken very nicely.

For dinner, Katie had a wild mushroom ravioli ($13.50), served in a mushroom-infused vodka-tomato cream. The ravioli was good, if a bit pedestrian, stuffed quite full of portabella mushrooms. It was, however, the sauce that made the dish stand out. Rich and creamy with a dark yet sweet flavor, the ravioli were merely a vehicle for this outstanding sauce.

Mrs. Dish was served the jumbo lump crab cake ($18). At first blush, it almost tasted as if the chef had fallen into the trap of adding too much cake to the crab. But, for some reason, it worked. The fresh crab meat’s texture and sweet flavor set off the sumptuous spicing of the bread crumbs like mortar in bricks rather than the haphazard over-compensation for sub-par seafood. The fact that the meal came unencumbered by an additional starch was noted and appreciated.

I opted for a 14 oz ribeye ($20) with a dash of their signature “Sassy Steak Dust.” Normally, I cast down any such rub a blasphemy unto the steak gods, but this particular flavor combination enhanced what I found to be a too-thin (but sufficiently bloody and marbled) steak. The accompanying mashed potatoes turned out to be a somewhat dull afterthought, but perfectly steamed, crisp asparagus almost convinced me that I was being a moderately healthy bastard.

Mr. Dish had approximately the same meal, “Our Signature Cowboy Steak,” also a ribeye, but a full 6 oz heavier than mine (bone in), garnished with chipotle chimichurri and crispy onion straw ($28). Not for the first time, I was looking at Mr. Dish’s piece of meat with envy. It seemed that his was a thicker, more vigorously tasty piece than mine, but we Filipinos often have such worries.

Chef Rich Horn (pictured right), who has worked extensively in kitchens throughout the state, plans to feature theme dinners with wine flights. Horn is very discriminating about choosing choice cuts of meat, and it shows.

Sassy Marie’s first impression makes it seem rather worthy of the previous venue’s vaunted pedigree. Its menu may give the impression that it’s trying very hard to separate itself from said prior establishment, but its diligent work is not for naught. In addition, its extensive bar menu might do well in drawing the masses away from more entrenched watering holes with stagnant menus in the neighborhood.

Sassy Marie's, 422 Foreland St. at James Street, 412-246-0355; Smoking available at the bar. Website to come.

Sassy Marie's to open tonight

New North Side restaurant ready to go