Pittsburgh Dish

Family recipe revived

Beloved Homewood BBQ sauce returns

Woodside Restaurant closed in 1995 after having been in business on Frankstown Avenue in Homewood-Brushton for 35 years. Owners Henrietta and Allen Williams' popular spot was gone and so was their signature secret barbecue sauce.

Until now.

The Williams' nephew, Ronald "P-Nut" Burke, has created what he and others believe tastes closest to the original sauce. Burke's "Woodside's All Purpose Mustard Sauce" is the result of years of talking to relatives and patrons of the restaurant to replicate the complex flavor and thick texture.

"My mom conjured up something close to it and we worked on it to get it right," said Burke. "The response from the community indicated it was."

Burke jars about for cases a week in a separate kitchen in his Penn Hills home. He sells through word-of-mouth and by phone.

The brown mustard-based sauce, sold hot or mild ($5/16oz; $10/32 oz), can be used for grilling all types of meat or as a dipping sauce for veggies and cheese. Many of his customers use it on ribs, hot dogs, burgers, chicken, fish and fries.

Dish slathered the hot version over a pork loin this weekend (after marinating it for about an hour) and the smoky mustard flavor with nutty undertones was outstanding. This locally-made sauce is a must-try this summer.

Call Burke at 412-969-6198 to place an order.

The Dish on Dish: 900 Cafe and Lounge

An early report

by Michael Vivar

Despite a better-than-middling location and a fabulous space, eateries and drinkeries that attempt to ensconce themselves in Allegheny West's 900 Western Avenue tend to have the life spans of mayflies. For a short while it was “too cool for you” True, a scene to be seen gay club, and then for an even shorter while it was “are we cool ye… oops. We’re closed” Nuance. With this in mind, Katie and I tried to dine at the 900 Café and Lounge before they had to scrape the logo from the window and leave under cover of night.

The décor hadn’t changed much since its previous iterations. Except for the lighting being more family friendly and the lack of shabby queens affecting Kate Hepburn, the place has maintained its minimalist style with amusing accents of Jackson Pollock-esque art on the walls (this will, apparently change from month to month). We were seated at a high table on barstools surrounded by an amusing pastiche of neighborhood folk and squealing CCAC girls.

The menu isn’t what you’d call extensive. Having been the evening of Good Friday, Katie was expecting some sort of fish special, but was disappointed. There wasn’t even a vegetarian entrée option. So she opted for a mushroom crottin appetizer to which our waitress generously added a sweet potato side dish at no extra charge when we were dismayed by their lack of land-meat free choices. Katie very much enjoyed the mushroom dish. I admit, I only had a bite, but I thought the use of button mushrooms lent too strong of a flavor and there was too much of a struggle between this and the flavor of the cheese. Her sweet potato side, though, was met with unanimous applause. The sweet potato was lightly mashed or pureed, giving it a not-too-smooth texture and was sprinkled, on top, with a sort of bread crumb sparingly sweetened with brown sugar. This portion’s mild deliciousness was a nice respite from the palate struggle of the mushroom crottin.

As my religious tendencies tend toward non-practicing, I ordered the braised beef brisket for my dinner. The strips of beef came apart enticingly with a gentle prodding of my fork, but I found it to be a little to dry. The accompanying barbecue sauce, however, was absolutely heavenly – sweet without being too cloying. It also came with a sweet potato side and some lightly seasoned tomatoes. My sweet potatoes, unlike Katie’s, were unadorned and fairly unspectacular, and I often found myself eyeing her dish enviously. The tomatoes, while very ripe and sweet, had a tart quality that clashed with the aforementioned barbecue sauce.

Altogether, the experience at the 900 Café and Lounge was relatively plain but, I have to admit, intriguing. The owner/chef was very exuberant in asking our opinion of the meal and, when comments were made, he seemed to genuinely take them into account. This is in stark contrast to the cold shoulders given by previous iterations of 900 Western. So I hope to be able to return and see what else is in store for this newly friendly and welcoming venue.

900 boasts a full-service bar and outdoor seating with heat lamps for smokers.

Rosebud Fine Food Market and Deli reviewed

Not a bad grocery, but a terrible sled

On March 18, Downtown Pittsburgh welcomed Rosebud Fine Food Market and Deli, its first grocery store since 1994.

On March 19, Mr. Dish was called for jury duty.

After several hours of sitting next to a older woman with horrifying dandruff, Mr. Dish was not selected to serve and began walking home to Dish’s North Side headquarters. Knowing the larder lacked foodstuffs, Mr. Dish decided to poke his head into Rosebud.

As a dedicated carnivore, he was pleased by the selection of Silver Star brand meats. The deli, featuring Boar’s Head cold cuts was pleasing as well. Mr. Dish grabbed a couple packages of pork chops and a rump roast and then turned his attention to the vegetables.

It was at this point he was saddened. The green beans were limp. Open for just a day and selling desiccated beans! The horror! Much of the remaining produce was in a similarly unpleasant condition, aside from the potatoes and mushrooms Mr. Dish acquired.

On the plus side, the roast and chops turned out to be delicious and Rosebud features a raft of organic products as well as the little odds and ends (such as paper products, various and sundry beverages, some fresh fruit, garbage bags, etc.) that one might need but be reluctant to travel to a suburban Giant Eagle to obtain.

The prices seemed fair, especially considering the downtown location. The employees were quite pleasant.

One disappointment remains, though. It was raining quite steadily, so Mr. Dish asked the friendly employees for plastic bags. He was told that in an effort to be environmentally conscious, such bags were not available and he had not packed his canvas sacks for jury duty. Paper it was.

After strolling through the rain, Mr. Dish was nearly back at the office when a bag burst, subjecting his potatoes to a refreshing dip in the gutter.

But, there’s no use crying over moistened potatoes and one can be sure that Downtown residents, workers, and the folks in the neighborhoods surrounding Downtown will be glad to have Rosebud within their reach.

The market, at Seventh Street and Fort Duquesne Boulevard in the Encore on 7th apartment building, is open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.

Ribilicious, indeed

Wilson's BBQ remains spectacular

Listen, Dish knows that Wilson's BBQ, at the corner of Buena Vista and N. Taylor in the Mexican War Streets, has been open for a very long time. Dish also knows that many people, including representatives of national, glossy magazines, have written about its meaty charms.

Nevertheless ...

Dish hadn't been by Wilson's in a while and, on Thursday, the Dish pantry was bare (the basic components of food were available, but there was no actual "food"). So, Wilson's. So, pork spareribs.

(Column intermission: Do you know why they're called spareribs? Do you? Well, it's not because they're an "extra" part of the animal. Rather, because they're "spare" in terms of the quantity of meat attached to the bone. It's like this, spare as in not lavish, abundant, or excessive.)

In any event, the ribs themselves were excellent--tender and smoky, largely due to the fruit tree wood Mr. Wilson uses in his hand-built oven. But what makes Wilson's a worthwhile ribbery is the sauce. That hot (very hot) sauce is the perfect blend of heat and flavor. A tomato-based concoction, its heat is enough to engender a bead or two of sweat on the brow, but there's a rich and slightly sweet undercurrent that caresses the not-quite-ignited palate.

In short, Mr. Wilson, you must bottle this stuff. Dish will be back for the ribs, but we'd also truly love to have a gallon of your hot sauce available for coating just about everything we cook at home when the larder is not bare.

Modern-ized

An old tavern renewed

Photo by Frank Kownacki. Click image for larger view.

"The Modern Cafe," located on Western Avenue in Allegheny West, has long been a fine place to enjoy an adult beverage with its cheap, cold drafts, red vinyl booths, fine sound system and commendable jukebox (though it is digital). In the 1990s, the Modern's retro charm caught the lens of the filmmakers who committed Michael Chabon’s novel “Wonder Boys” to celluloid but, thankfully, it hasn't been swarmed with Roller Derby hipsters or tourists in need of a good slumming.

On Steelers Sundays, the place is a rest stop for fans in need of a boost on the way to or from their cars. And for a while, Karaoke packed the place with off-key revelers. The Modern has always gone quietly about its business, never suffering from an identity crisis. It is what it is, a solid neighborhood bar that just so happens to be super cool.

In the coming days, the Modern will gently introduced some small, but significant, changes. In addition to a sampling of fried fare, co-owner Dean Zotis will offer panini sandwiches until closing. Zotis owns The Little Deli down the block and delivers take-out lunch orders to the Modern. Coming soon—as soon as the panini press he ordered comes in—he'll offer grilled sandwiches into the evening.

A growing selection of microbrews is also on tap as well as is a jazz night, an endeavor he's cooking up with Muriel's, the fine restaurant  down the street. Zotis will also welcome Muriel's diners who need a place to wait for a table. When your table is ready, Muriel's will call the Modern.

Neighborhood imbibers welcome this news as the Monterey Pub in the Mexican War Streets is becoming more of a restaurant than a bar. The increasing popularity of the Pub is making it difficult for beer-soaked regulars to cop a squat and booze away the evening in comfort. The Pub now takes reservations for large parties, and on many nights you must put your name on a list to get a booth in which to enjoy a beer. Good for the Pub, bad for the genteel neighborhood wastrel.

The Pub is also banning smoking come the end of March. In a way, Dish is OK with this as the decision was made by ownership, not the state. On the other hand, both halves of Dish smoke, which makes us less inclined to patronize a business that makes us less than welcome.

So, the Pub's going modern and, thank heavens, the Modern's going just a little pub.

862 Western Ave Pittsburgh, PA 15233 (412) 321-4550

The Dish on Dish: Market Street Ale House

Better than bar food

by Michael Vivar

Ahhh, Market Square. A haven for transients, be they downtrodden, upscale, or perhaps a little of both. Not a place you’d expect to find an establishment with what you would call a neighborhood feel. Not so with the Market Street Ale House.

With a new job Downtown, I was looking for somewhere to lunch and rest my posterior on a chair without wheels. For the first week, morale was low. After procuring a recommendation from a co-worker, I slumped off to the Ale House with low expectations. I hadn’t noticed the place before as it has a very demure doorway nestled between the Jenny Lee bakery and the Original Oyster House. After climbing the stairs (which would rival the breathalyzer as a drunkenness metric), I was greeted with the grim and harried smile of the bartender, Roess, who is much more affable than his initial visage let on.

I seated myself at the bar and was treated to a floor-to-ceiling windowed view of Market Square. It was a sort of Foucaultian panopticon overlooking a suited freak show. I’d been told by the aforementioned co-worker that regulars even indulge in a “tow-truck parade” around 6 p.m. when vagrant vehicles are plucked from the street by salivating tow-truck drivers.

The first lunch I had was their “Steakhouse Pirogues” ($10.95). This was a generous helping of onion, portabella, and red pepper stuffed pirogues under thick slices of steak. The steak was deliciously pink with a double bock steak sauce, which was, at first a touch too salty, but this bite encouraged one to blunt the flavor with bites of pirogue that would have made a Ukranian mother weep.

A few days later, I returned to find a blackened catfish special ($10.95). This dish spurred me to stop prefacing my description of the Ale House as having “good bar food” and merely say “good food.” Though “blackened” would be an exaggeration, the seasoning couldn’t have suited the dish more. There was a peppery kick that complemented the fatty and flaking fish fabulously.

Though Downtown isn’t a place people make a point of visiting in the evenings, much less Market Square, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend the Market Street Ale House as a destination bar.

21 Market St, Downtown, 412-745-2337

Mattress Factory cafe reopens

Noted chef heads up museum eatery

On Feb. 21, the Mattress Factory will host a grand opening of the BoxSpring Café, formally the Coca Cafe. Located in the lobby of the museum’s main building at 500 Sampsonia Way, the BoxSpring Café will offer selections created by chef Rich Rosenthal of M Catering. The vegetarian-friendly menu includes soups, salads, sandwiches, specialty entrées and flatbread pizza. Outdoor seating is available (weather permitting).

Rich launched his career at the The Carlton, and soon became a managing chef at Café Azure.

The BoxSpring Café Grand Opening party will be held on Thursday, Feb. 21 at 7 p.m. Selections from the Spring menu will be available as well as live acoustic entertainment and complementary wine. Admission is $10.00 ($5.00 for members/students). For more information and to download the BoxSpring menu in PDF format, visit the Mattress Factory website.

The Dish on Dish: Hoi Polloi

A Joy

by Emilia Boehm

So, by now you’ve probably driven by or hopefully even visited the newest legitimate business in Allegheny City, the lovely vegetarian café/coffeehouse that is Hoi Polloi, owned by Jessica Burgan and Sandra Telep (pictured). You should have at least read the earlier Dish coverage on the Hoi, but if you haven’t done any of these things, here’s your motivation, slackers.

Should you be as linguistically challenged as the taller half of these sometime Dish correspondents, you’ll need to know that “Hoi Polloi” means “common people,” and is indeed Latin and not some branch of Pacific Islander speak. (Sounds like it could be, though, right?) This is relevant because Hoi Polloi has a friendly, comforting vibe in a relaxed setting—a welcoming spot for the “common people,” and all the rest of us North Side rabble. It’s the kind of place you can grab a coffee and a snack and veg out for a bit.

Hoi Polloi’s small menu consists of simple, familiar dishes made with quality ingredients. And the fare is—gasp—vegetarian. This of course thrills the shorter correspondent, who, while a recovering vegetarian, continues to be quite fond of meatless meals. As a dedicated carnivore, I was considerably skeptical, but have been repeatedly and pleasantly surprised. On a number of trips to the Hoi, we’ve enjoyed tasty treats such as grilled cheese sammiches, tomato and mozzarella quesadillas, and vegetarian chili (one neighbor mentioned it was the best veggie chili they've ever tasted). The mango wrap is a favorite, filled with scrumptious fresh mango and red onion salsa, black beans and rice. Daily specials and soups of the day spice up the menu; the corn and zucchini soup was smooth, fresh, and not ruined by an overactive salt shaker.

Should you find yourself at the Hoi in a more breakfasty mood, you’ll find the classics: bagels, muffins, oatmeal, bottled juices and smoothies. We shared a lovely yogurt parfait, for which we were given our choice of fresh fruit (we chose blueberries and red pear) served over a slightly sweetened plain yogurt and a dried stone fruit laced granola. The grilled Nutella left the shorter smiling through the smathering of creamy Nutella topped with sliced banana, served open-faced on chewy, toasted farm bread. The coffee and espresso from fair-trade, organic Dean’s Beans in Massachusetts are strong yet non-acidic and can be made into the standard assortment of caffeinated beverages.

Perhaps the most soothing feature of the Hoi is the prices – almost everything on the menu can be acquired for less than $5, with only the salads drifting slightly above the head of Mr. Lincoln.

If you’re looking for large quantities, head to Eat’n Park. If you want fancy, reserve a table at Lamont. But if you’re looking for foodstuffs that are affordable, light and healthy, Hoi Polloi is your woman.

Hoi Polloi
1100 Galveston (corner of W. North), North Side

Mon.-Thurs: 6 a.m. - 9 pm.; Fri: 6 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Sat: 7 a.m. -10 p.m.; Sun.: 1 p.m. - 9 p.m.

The Dish on Dish: Mio

An Aspinwall delight

by Michael Vivar

I have to admit that I tend to avoid Aspinwall as much as I can. I'm sure it's of no fault of Aspinwallers (Aspinwallites? Aspin...something?), but there's something about the area that makes me feel like a shabby hobo. So it was with a bit of trepidation and fear that shouts of, “Untouchable!” would ring in my ears when we decided to go to Mio Kitchen and Wine Bar.

Though the facade is fairly unassuming and would make one think the interior would be cramped, the dining area was actually quite spacious. We went on a Wednesday night so it wasn't very crowded, but I noticed that, with their table configuration, the place could get cramped during a Friday/Saturday dinner rush. Wrought iron adornments everywhere gave an air of elegance without being ostentatious.

To start, Katie had a Belgian endive salad ($12) with toasted walnuts, gorgonzola, orange, and sherry vinegar. The bitter endive, fragrant gorgonzola, the vinegar's bite, and the walnut's crunchiness were an absolutely fabulous flavor and texture combination. The only slight misstep was that the orange wasn't as ripe as it could have been so it lent a hint of too much acidity, but these less than perfect bites were few.

When I'd last checked their website, there were veal sweetbreads in the first course. I was disappointed that it had been replaced with equally cruel foie gras ($14), but this turned out to be an immoral delight. They were served in dainty little pink slices and were as smooth as fresh-churned butter without an overpowering liver taste. Within the slices were grains of sea salt that provided little bursts of flavor. It was accompanied by a circle of fried pastry drizzled with Nutella and a slice of stewed pear. The sweet crispy dough was a perfect complement to the goose liver. However, the pear slice was so cloyingly sweet that it masked the understated richness of the foie gras and remained mostly untouched.

Katie chose, as her main course, the braised short ribs ($32) served over creamy barley and sweet peas in a horseradish and porccini essence. The meat was prepared very simply, which was all that was necessary. Its tender deliciousness needed no fussy additions. The horseradish and porccini essence gave a dark bite to the overall dish.

My entree was the roasted Elysian Fields lamb ($39). It was a braised shoulder cassoulet that reminded one of an extremely decadent stew with just the right combination of fat and lean. It was presented over a flageolet bean puree. This merely provided an accompanying texture and did not add much to the flavor, which was fine as the cassoulet stood excellently on its own.

The restaurant boasts of an accomplished pastry chef. We found, though, that the dessert course we shared was a bit forgettable – literally. We've been attempting to wrack our brains to remember what we had just a few evenings ago, but have come up with nothing. I don't think this necessarily speaks ill of the dessert, but highlights how good the rest of the meal was.

For all the hesitance I felt about dining in Aspinwall, Mio's luxurious atmosphere and superb food quelled any doubts.

Mio Kitchen & Wine Bar
225 Commercial Avenue
Aspinwall, PA 15215
412-781-3141
http://www.mio-pgh.com

Scoop du Jour: Beleza & the Benedum

Art, food on stage

ART OPENING POTLUCK for Assemblages, this Friday, Jan. 18 from 6:30 to 10p.m. at Beleza Community Coffeehouse (1501 Buena Vista, North Side, 412-321-4210).

Assemblages will feature works from our neighborhood's very own Nathan Nissim, an avid collector-turned-artist who creates unique and often humorous assemblages from anything and everything. For those unfamiliar with the term, Wikipedia explains that "Assemblage is an artistic process in which a three-dimensional artistic composition is made from putting together found objects. Assemblage is the 3-dimensional cousin of collage." These pieces combine new and old, tacky and beautiful, strange and common; ultimately composing intriguing little works of art.

Bring food, friends and family and check out some great local art!

Read about Nissim here and here.

................................................................................................................................................................

Muriel’s restaurant (856 Western Ave., Allegheny West, 412-322-0476) will host their first Dinner & Theater event on Wednesday, Jan. 30, for "The Lion King" at the Benedum.
This package is less than the cost of an individual ticket. Check out the seating chart.

$125.00 per ticket will include:
1. Ticket to the show.
2. House salad
3. Choice of any entrée on the menu.
4. Coffee/tea Service.
5. No corkage fee.
6. Limousine to the Benedum
7. Pick Up after the show.
8. Coffee and dessert at Muriel's après theater.
9. All taxes and gratuities

The following seats are available…….
EE 21, 23(Sold)
FF 21, 23 (Sold)
H 101 (Sold), 102 (Sold), 103 (Sold), 104 (Sold), 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110
M 113, 114, 115,116
P 115, 116

The tickets for this event must be pre-paid by cash or credit card when they are ordered. Muriel's will accept your phone order. Send Muriel’s an email with your phone number if interested.

Also, Muriel's delivers lunch to several North Side neighborhoods. Visit their website for details.

The Dish on Dish: Point Brugge

Design flaws rescued by the kitchen

by Michael Vivar

I'd like to think of myself as a worldly, well-traveled individual, but when Belgium springs to mind, things get hazy. I know that their people are fine chocolatiers. I also know that NATO had its uses during the Cold War. Finally, I absolutely abhor Jean-Claude Van Damme (shut up, 13 year old self). So, in all honesty, I expected Point Brugge, a Belgian restaurant in Point Breeze, to be filled with cocoa smeared martial artists fighting about the merits of a missile defense shield. While I was disappointed that this wasn't the case, I had an enjoyable experience nonetheless.

Let's get the bad out of the way first. With its faux wood and formica tables along with a chaotic layout of the dining areas, the place has all the charm of an Eat 'n Park. The outside wall is exposed brick and badly insulated Katie and I spent some of our shivering in a back corner. Conversely, as the dinner rush wore on (we got there around 5 p.m. and it was pretty deserted), the dining room filled pretty quickly and became stifling. With all this, expectations regarding the food were getting low, but we soon realized why so many people would suffer through the atmosphere.

We started by sharing a small moules bowl ($10), which was a pound of mussels in a sauce of white wine, shallots, garlic, and cream. The first bite rendered all outside experiences meaningless. They were perfectly steamed and tender. What really made the dish, though, was the sauce. It has to be tasted for the next statement to make any sense, but the sauce was subdued and explosively delicious at the same time. A crusty bread was provided to sop up this liquid wonderfulness, but I was constantly on the verge of sweeping up the bowl and slurping it straight, decorum be damned.

Katie's main course was a Flemish Carbonnade ($18), beef braised with ale, sweet apples, apricots, and rosemary. It was quite simple, but prepared very well. The beef just melted in the mouth. It was served with their much ballyhooed Brugge Frittes, which very much lived up to the hype. They were crispy along the edges while moist in the middle, the perfect combination of thin cut fries and steak fries.

I had their special, a roasted (I think) boneless duck breast in a sweet and sour sauce garnished with pomegranate seeds served over rice pilaf ($18). There was a half-hearted attempt to include a gourd vegetable medley along the outside edge of the plate, but they were barely worth mentioning. The rice pilaf with pine nuts was too dry, but we Asians can be geeks about that sort of thing. The duck, though, is deserving of quite a bit of praise. Medium rare and flavorful, it was a delight to the tongue. Although the pomegranate seeds added a nice tartness to a passable sweet and sour sauce, there was something about the gritty texture of the pits that robbed something from an otherwise great dish. I think a light addition of pomegranate juice to the sauce would have significantly improved the preparation.

So if you're willing to have either a very early or late supper or have no problem sitting shoulder to shoulder with your neighbors, you'll be rewarded with Point Brugge's excellent food. The only other thing that really needs to be mentioned is the stupendous beer selection. Oh yeah. That's another thing I can remember about Belgium. Drunken Trappist monks.

Point Brugge Cafe
401 Hastings St
Pittsburgh, PA 15206
(412) 441-3334

The Dish On Dish: Joseph Tambellini Restaurant

A family tradition hits the spot

by Michael Vivar

You can't swing a sweet chariot around town without hitting a dining establishment associated with the Tambellinis. The family maintains a stellar reputation in Pittsburgh as various branches of the tree have gone to flourish in their culinary endeavors. Thus, it was with high hopes that Katie and I went to the newest family offshoot, Joseph Tambellini's in Highland Park.

Walking into the restaurant felt like walking into someone's home. Though, at first glance, the tinted mirrors and proximity of the bar to the dining area reminded one of a 1970s key party, it seemed to work without feeling tacky. I feel that something more could be done to dampen the acoustics in the place because we could hear conversations taking place across the room.

It took some time for us to put in our initial orders because the wait staff was shorthanded. Throughout the evening, we were also attended to by the maitre d' and even the bartender. Don't take this as being indicative of the normal state of affairs, though, because we came in the Sunday after Thanksgiving. I think they were expecting people to still be picking through leftovers and not populating an almost full first floor. Also, what our waitress lacked in experience she more than made up for in friendliness. I think that a few months will find her navigating from kitchen to dining room with the best.

For our appetizer we shared their “greens and beans,” ($7) a heavenly mixture of braised white beans and escarole with Panchetta ham, garlic, olive oil and some Italian sausage thrown into the mix. It could have used less olive oil as after a few prodding forkfuls the whole thing coagulated and the flavors, especially that of the ham, became less distinguishable. What made the dish stand out was the sausage, a densely packed and spicy affair that went with the escarole and white beans beautifully.

Each entree came with a salad and pasta course. The former was chef's salad with the lovely surprises of crisp and crunch provided by the addition of sprouts and honey roasted peanuts. The latter was farfalla pasta with a veal reduction marinara sauce. The sauce was fantastically rich with chunks of veal that melted in the mouth. We were unable to finish our servings for fear of spoiling our appetites for the main course.

Katie ordered chicken marsala with white and shiitake mushrooms ($19). The chicken was so tender a knife wasn't even needed. It brought forth images of a large swarthy fellow beating the thing with a hammer until it was tenderized into submission. The firmness of the lightly sauteed mushrooms was a nice textural complement. It was doused in a darkly flavored marsala sauce that was so tasty for once I didn't mind the overly generous hand of the saucier.

I had the veal chop Saltimbocca ($36). It was a hearty 16 oz. bone-in cut basted with au jus. Tender and studded with pearls of fat, I couldn't stop eating even though I knew I was gorging myself. This was accompanied with spinach sauteed in, again, a bit too much olive oil but the oil they used was light with a hint of sweetness so I didn't mind at all. Within the spinach were bits of crackling garlic that teased the taste buds.

Before going out, Katie's diabetes monster was gurgling and making her grumpy so she was ready to eviscerate whatever restaurant in which we dined. Fortunately, our spectacular meal calmed the beast and the night turned out splendidly. Highland Park may be out of the way for some, but Joseph Tambellini's makes it a worthy destination for a meal out.

Joseph Tambellini Restaurant, 5701 Bryant Street, Highland Park, 412-665-9000

The Dish on Dish: Palate

Buzz kill

by Michael Vivar

For me, one thing that robs appeal from a restaurant is buzz. When mainstream outlets such as the Post-Gazette gush about a hot new “place to go,” it raises the hackles as it usually means a “place to go” full of people I don't want to be around. I do admit to a weakness for New Yorkified French cuisine, so it was with leeriness that Katie and I went to the relatively new Downtown eatery, Palate.

The first thing we noticed as we passed the place for the umpteenth time while trying to find parking (rabble scrabble Light Up Night) was how strikingly ugly the logo is. It tries too hard to be modern, but ends up looking like a 1970s version of the future. This wouldn't be so terrible if it weren't right across the classical beauty of Heinz Hall. It was reminiscent of a beautiful woman in a Vera Wang dress who has a homely friend dressed with off-the-rack Fashion Bug in tow.

Once we got inside, we immediately forgot about the garishness of our first impression. The dining area was crowded with the pre-theater set, but but the layout prevented it from seeming cramped. Its muted color scheme and lighting along with modern artistic adornments gave away the owner's New York pedigree. It took a moment to get seated as WPXI's Gordon Loesch and his chiseled jaw were there with a camera crew covering a story. The maitre d' gave us free drinks to compensate for the wait.

I was excited about the appetizers when I saw that they served one of my favorite dishes, veal sweetbreads ($12). The were, unfortunately, a disappointment. They must have pulled the glands out of a(n even runtier than normal) veal calf because the serving was quite small and dry. This was made more obvious by it being placed by an overly sized Belgian waffle immersed in huckleberries. The whole was a gastronomic monstrosity. Katie went with the day boat scallops with butternut squash and ennis hazelnut ravioli ($14). The dish suggests that the chef works better when he/she works simply with good quality base products. The scallops were perfectly seared so that they could be sliced paper thin without being tough and had a marvelous briny flavor. This was nicely complemented by the barely cooked squash and a hint of vanilla sweetness in the ravioli.

Another disappointment was their running out of venison as I hadn't had deer in such a long time. In its stead I had beef short rib and root vegetable ragout with casarecce pasta and horseradish gremolata. The meat might have been good if the chef hadn't been so stingy with it. The pasta might have been better if it weren't so slathered with a very pedestrian gremolata. It wasn't that the dish was very bad, but very frustratingly dull.

Again, Katie fared better with her repast of organic duck. Its preparation was delightful with a leg braised with pistachio and the breast wrapped in Swiss chard and phyllo then sliced. The preparation of the former gave an airiness to normally dark-flavored duck meat while the latter preparation kept the white meat succulent.

Palate is inconsistent and lackadaisical. Its French fusion adds a much needed variety to Pittsburgh cuisine and I recommend that anyone who has no better recourse for such food to try it. However, you'll have a voice saying, in the back of your mind, “This could be much better.”

Palate Bistro, 212 Sixth Street, (across from Heinz Hall), Downtown, 412-434-1422

The Dish on Dish: Geno's Restaurant

Warm, delicious and friendly

by Michael Vivar

The night was frigid and the wind tunnel effect on Butler Street seemed to give me and Katie an extra shove through the door of Geno’s in Lawrenceville. We sidled up to the bar and joined the Dish Duo for a drink and to take in the surroundings. The bar area has a cozy “slump your shoulders” feel to it with a relaxing dim lighting scheme. After the rest of the party finished their various drinks and I a perfect martini (stirred so as to not bruise the flavor), we were led into the dining room, which was a bit jarring.  After getting used to a bar atmosphere, I was surprised to enter a lovely family-style dining area. I liked that this was a place where you could toss a few back after work and bring your family.

We sat in the midst of empty tables at first, but as another hour wore on, people began pouring in, greeting each other with familiarity, which lent an atmosphere of warm neighborhood dining. 

Katie and I started with what was advertised as a baked brie. We were expecting some batter dipped concoction drizzled with fruit sauce.  What we were presented, though, was much more savory. Thin wedges of brie were wrapped in ham slices and served on unleavened flatbread. The ham did an excellent job of keeping the gooey brie goodness together. Mr. and Mrs. Dish shared an order of fried calamari. We weren’t impressed with the looks of the serving at first as it appeared to be brown and overcooked. Upon biting into the morsels, we were duly impressed by its perfectly cooked flavor and texture. I suspect that it was cooked in moderately used oil, which provided the brown color, but this method infuses a stronger taste from the fried fabulousness that have gone in before. Also a hit was the tomato basil soup; a rich, complex mixture that left us a full yet wanting more.   

Having been told that the owner of the restaurant is a native New Englander, they opted for seafood dishes. Mrs. Dish had a shrimp scampi pasta. The pasta was nicely al dente and the pedigree of the owner did not disappoint as the shrimp tasted as if they’d been plucked from the nets that morning. Mr. Dish ordered a seafood medley over pasta.  The scallops were of the same high quality, but the mussels were a touch overdone and rubbery.

Katie had spaghetti with meatballs and sausage. It’s an excellent staple dish for one not feeling all that adventurous. When I ordered a rib-eye steak, I requested that it not be trimmed too much as I prefer a fatty cut. Lisa Giguere, our waitress and Geno's co-owner informed me that they never trim their steaks as “fat is love.” At this point I was entirely won over and the actual steak didn’t disappoint. It was cooked to my discerning and bloody standards with yummy fat glistening on its edges.

In all, it was a lovely experience that blunted all of our distaste for crossing the river.

Geno's Restaurant and Big Belly Deli. 5147 Butler Street, Lawrenceville, 412-781-3432

The Dish on Dish: Bistro to Go

Here to stay

by Mary Aicher

Photos by Frank Kownacki

This month, a beautiful new storefront opened on East Ohio Street, and Dish hopes Bistro To Go will spawn a revitalization of like-minded enterprises.

Dish decided to drop in on the new eatery Thursday night, and we were not disappointed. Ms. Dish, Significant Other Dish and Dish Jr. arrived just before closing time at 7 p.m. to find a packed restaurant. The special was lasagna, and we recommend it.

We received a huge portion, along with a side (we chose zucchini) and a roll. Dish Jr. got a child's portion of fantastic pasta with tomato sauce, a roll and a bowl of fresh fruit. Bistro To Go employees were even kind enough to melt some cheese on top of the pasta for Dish Jr.!

About four minutes and $17 later, we were out the door. Even though we ate at home and not at the restaurant, the food was fantastic and reasonably priced. The rest of the menu features salads, sandwiches and daily offerings of vegetables, potato salad and other items. There is plenty of seating inside given the crowd, and there is an outdoor patio that we look forward to trying out during warmer temps.

Our neighborhood needs to support businesses like this that invest in our future and bring quality, affordable, choices to the North Side. If you haven't tried Bistro To Go, please do. And encourage your friends and neighbors to do the same.

Maybe more new businesses will populate along North Avenue and East Ohio Street in the future, making our neighborhood that much better.

website for details on the menu, hours and pricing.

October 26, 2007 in Food/Restaurant reviews, North Side, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (3)

October 23, 2007

The Dish on Dish: Oh Yeah!

The scoop on Shadyside's swank ice creamatorium

by Michael Vivar

Nestled in a cozy space on Highland Avenue, the confectionary boutique is an entirely green space. While this might conjure, for some, mental images of a hippie commune where people sit on bald radial tires and eat off of scavenged plywood and cinder block tables, the reality is a cheerfully bright space that lightens the mood of our increasingly grey Pittsburgh days. Now on to the sweet treats.

The shop features flavors and toppings that boggle the mind such as pineapple and goat cheese and beef jerky respectively. On our first outing, though, we didn’t tread too far off the beaten path. Katie bent to her Green Isle heritage and had a scoop of Irish Cream with a scoop of sugar free vanilla (Huzzah for looking out for the diabetics!) along with a sprinkling of gummy bears. I had a scoop of “five-star” chocolate, a scoop of mocha tofu ice cream, and a dash of habanero.

Before I get to the quality of our repast, let me tell you of how these flavors are mixed together. They have a machine that I can only assume was inspired by the Spanish Inquisition. It’s a large mixing drill that the ice cream slinger plunges into the dessert with the gusto of Torquemada on a heretic. The flavors are completely mixed and the process is such that every time we’ve been to the shop, every customer gets a six-year old’s gleam in their eye that says, “I wanna try!”

Katie’s concoction was divine. “Oh Yeah” gets their ice cream from “Woo City,” a company that prides itself on their use of Amish cows and unrefined sugars. We could taste this difference from dessert producers that, apparently, threaten their cows with electrical appliances. The Irish Cream was delightful and their sugar free vanilla didn’t have that chalky taste you’ll find in much artificially sweetened fare.

Mine was equally good, and surprisingly so. After having many pints of reprehensible Tofutti being forced upon me by well-meaning friends, I was glad that the mocha was sensed by my palate as being mocha and not, well, tofu. The addition of habanero gave the whole thing a hot bite that was pleasant in the brisk Autumn day.

I’ve heard criticism about the supposedly exorbitant price at “Oh Yeah!” but I say “bosh!” to that. We paid around $10 for our indulgence and I believe the quality and experience were well worth the cost. In addition, a person would pay a comparable amount at one of the ever-expanding chain frou frou ice cream concerns and would find these places laughably pedestrian compared to this home town concern. Oh yeah, they’re dog friendly, so Cora the Love Pig is happy, and that’s all that really matters.

"Oh Yeah!" is located at 232 Highland Ave., Shadyside.

October 23, 2007 in Food/Restaurant reviews, Michael Vivar, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (0)

October 08, 2007

A new bean in town

Peet's perks Pittsburgh

The coffee Mr. Dish is consuming costs $50 a pound. It is excellent. Mr. Dish is much, much swanker than you.

"Swanker?" you say. "Perhaps. But this Dish fellow is not smarter. Who the hell would pay that kind of scratch for coffee."

Au contraire mon frere. Mr. Dish didn't pay a dime for the half pound of Peet's Panama Esmeralda Geisha he brewed this morn'. He and the missus had been invited to the Strip District's Eleven by Peet's people for a "cupping" at which many fine coffees were paired with three Eleven-produced desserts (chocolate-caramel candy bar, banana cream pie, and blackberry tart, all divine).

To curry favor, the Peet's rep sent the Dishes home with 8 ounces of the Esmeralda Geisha and another 12 ounces of Peet's Sumatra. It worked. Dish is that cheap. (Also we really liked the coffee.)

So why were Peet's "coffee educator" Erica Hess and Big Burrito (institutional papa of Eleven) corporate chef Bill Fuller being so nice to the Dishes? Well, as regards Fuller, he loves Peet's coffee and is a regular mail-order client. Hess was there to herald Peet's arrival in the Pittsburgh market.

The California-based coffee roaster opens few of its coffee shops outside the west coast. Peet's freaks only option was to mail order their beans. In the last month, Peet's has arranged to sell its delicious beans in the region's Giant Eagle supermarkets.

Here's the rundown on the three coffees Dish tasted at Eleven.

* The Panama Esmeralda Geisha. Strong but clear flavor with citrus tones. Very fragrant.

* The Sumatra. Mighty.

* The Major Dickason's blend. Flavorful yet mellow. Kinda soothing, actually.

So, the Geisha was spectacular, alright. But why so expensive? Well, the beans are grown in one tiny area high in the Boquete region of Panama, so there's not much of it. When coffee roasters came across the stuff, they found it amazing. In 2007, only 215 50-pound sacks of the stuff were produced. Peet's got 50 of them.

One of the things that makes Peet's Peet's is that they roast no coffee before its time. Their fancy new Bay Area roasting plant receives orders, roasts the requested batches and sends them out the same day. Roasted coffee is not warehoused by Peet's. For this reason, Hess used the word "fresh" no fewer than 1,382 times during Dish's tasting.

Founder Alfred Peet, the "grandfather of specialty coffee" who died in August, would have it no other way. Peet tutored Starbucks in the early 70s and the Seattle owners considered themselves kindred spirits with Grandpa. Now the two chains are considered rivals, even though Peet's focus is retail, not coffee bars.

High quality + limited availability = costly. Simple, right?

Dish, as impressed as we are with Peet's, had to inform Hess that we must remain loyal to our local shop, Beleza. Dish can only be rented. It cannot be bought.

For more on Peets, go to www.peets.com

October 8, 2007 in Business & Retail, Caffeine, Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (3)

September 19, 2007

The Dish on Dish: Folino's

Folino's Ristorante is molto bene (very good, for yinz English-only speakers)

by Yvonne Hudson

Dish has been on a bit of a restaurant tear lately. We're on a mission to try out all restaurants -- new and established -- in our fair city.

That brings us to a South Side establishment called Folino's Ristorante, which opened in 2005 after operating for years as Young's Tavern (the locals still call it Young's). You may recall it's where B-list bombshell Sienna Miller threw a hissy fit and was thrown to the curb. Folino's celebrates the incident with t-shirts.

The intimate Italian eatery featured a piano player tickling the ivories with Sinatra and other classics while a Dish staffer and a companion perused the menu. We ordered a nice Pinot Grigio and ordered Bruschetta (we like Bruschetta, OK? We realize that's a recurring theme in our restaurant vists, but deal with it).

When our entrees arrived, we were not disappointed. A wonderful blackened Ahi tuna with fresh veggies arrived looking sumptuous and an entrée of shrimp scampi tossed in white wine sauce did not disappoint. The waiter was fantastic, and the atmosphere was relaxing.

What we especially liked about Folino's was that even though it's located on the South Side, it's not sterotypically "South Side" and hosts diners in jeans, college students, more conservative guests and a variety of ages.

The food is the draw, and it's worth the headache of traversing the Carson Street traffic.

Folino's, 1719 E. Carson St., 412-488-8108.

September 19, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (0)

August 29, 2007

Acanthus closed

North Side restaurant is again without a chef

Just one week after receiving a rave review in the City Paper, Acanthus restaurant has closed to the public and is only entertaining private parties for 12 or more.

Acanthus, located in the carriage house behind the Inn on the Mexican War Streets on the North Side, has had its share of kitchen woes since opening in December last year. While the meals have been consistently outstanding according to food critics, chefs have come and gone. Last week another chef departed and the restaurant is closed until further notice. The Library Bar, which was open to the public Thursday through Saturday, is also closed and will only be used for private parties, according to their website.

In February, a former bar manager who crafted a classic cocktail menu, attempted to launch a summer jazz night. After having success at finding interested musicians, the plan was never carried out, leaving many neighbors disappointed.

This month, owners of the inn and restaurant hung a banner in front of the Inn announcing they’d be open for lunch. The banner has since been removed.

August 29, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Mexican War Streets, North Side | Permalink | Comments (0)

August 22, 2007

Scoop du Jour: Hot off the grill

Wednesday recommendations: Kelly's Diner & Verdetto's

The Big Country Breakfast and the Mixed grille at Kelly's Diner

Hungry as a lumberjack? Hungover as Dean Martin on a Tuesday? Order The Big Country and a large Coke at Kelly's. This Brighton Heights spot will fix what ails you with three pancakes, three eggs, meat,  homefries and toast for $6.99.

Also try a Mixed Grille: four eggs scrambled with sausage, homefries, onions, green peppers & cheese. Also $6.99.

Kelly's serves breakfast all day, their bread is from the Breadworks, the staff is friendly and attentive.

(Owner Kelly Mehler and her family also own J & J's Family Restaurant & Catering in Mount Washington.)

Kelly's Diner & Catering

3053 Brighton Rd, North Side, 412-761-6072

.......................................................................................................................

Beer-battered fish sandwich at Verdetto's

The fish was suitably flaky, much in the manner of the gentleman who consumed it. The batter held a hint of Iron (or, perhaps, it was the Iron City draft Mr. Dish consumed alongside his meal that did the trick), but didn’t overwhelm the delicate whitefish. The fries, seemingly handcut, were a treat. That little bit of skin left on the tater makes a big difference when it comes to deep-fried starchy goodness. Verdetto's beer is cheap, the atmosphere is pleasant, the bar is oak and the place is spotless.

Verdetto's Bar & Restaurant

814 Madison Ave., North Side, 412-231-7696

Open 7 days.

Cash Only! An ATM machine is on site.

Photo by Frank Kownacki

August 22, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, North Side, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (1)

August 13, 2007

The Dish on Dish: Dish

Dish dishes on Dish Osteria and Bar

Hearing that Dish Osteria on 17th Street in the South Side was recently named one of Pittsburgh's Top 25 restaurants by Pittsburgh Magazine, Dish had to pay the intimate little eatery another visit.

We've been there before, but it's been awhile, and we thought it was time to drop in again.

It was just as we remembered. Small, friendly, delicious food, wonderful service, and an eclectic group of diners.

A Dish staffer and a companion made reservations and arrived early. Upon entering the restaurant and checking in with the server, we were told we could get a table right away, which pleased us greatly since the bar area was full and we would have been resigned to standing.

We were seated and immediately given the rundown of specials, placed our drink orders (a very nice Chardonnay) and left to ponder the menu. We ordered a Bruschetta appetizer (really freakin' good, even if it is pretty tough to screw up Bruschetta) and chatted while we waited. The server was extremely attentive, and before we knew it, our entrees arrived.

We feasted on scallops and saffron risotto and lingine ai fruitti di mare -- shellfish with pasta. Yum yum. We enjoyed our wine and good conversation and briefly considered dessert before realizing we would have to be rolled to the car if we ate any more.

The entrees price out at about $17 to $21, but it's entirely worth it.

We highly recommend Dish Osteria. Many of you probably have already experienced it, and it's palate pleasing journey not to be missed.

Dish Osteria is located at 128 S. 17th St. at Sarah Street in the South Side. To make a reservation, call 412-390-2012.

Photo: WQED

August 13, 2007 in Food/Restaurant reviews, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (1)

August 01, 2007

The Dish on Dish: Calico Jack's Cantina

Los crappos

by Julie Letsky

One recent weekday afternoon, some friends and I ventured to Calico Jack's Cantina, a new Mexican food-themed eatery just down the street from Grille 36 on the North Shore .

Bad move on our part.

Now, we aren't particularly picky people. Really, we aren't. Seriously.

But our dining experience was not one we'd care to repeat.

Though the restaurant was nearly empty, our waitress did not appear to take our drink orders for 10 minutes. Then, another 15 minutes passed before she appeared again to inquire about appetizers.

Moments away from starvation, we relented. We would, in fact, love a nosh. We ordered a little medley that included chicken wings, black bean taquitos and nachos with salsa.

Fifteen minutes later, out come our black bean taquitos and nachos with salsa. No wings. The waitress didn't recall hearing us order them, but she'd be glad to put the order in right away.

Well, considering 40 minutes of our Calico Jack's experience had already passed and we hadn't even gotten to the point of ordering entrees, we passed. We ordered (I ordered chicken and beef chimichanga's with cheese, guac and sour cream for $13) and waited for our food. Other items selected by our friends included a blackened chicken burrito with rice, shrimp fajitas and a carribean burrito.

The menu was not varied; mostly it featuring burritos, fajitas and chimichangas. Prices for appetizers ranged from $6 to $13 and entrees were reasonably priced, many under $13 or $14.

While we waited for our meals, we found something in the salsa that wasn't tomato or onion. We won't scare you with the details, because you may be enjoying a chimichanga right now and I'd hate for you to loose your lunch.

Since we saw neither hide nor hair of our waitress for another 10 minutes, we flagged down the manager. She was very apologetic and helpful and replaced the salsa. We were handed vouchers for a return visit. A highly doubtful prospect.

The food finally came. We were starving, so we scarfed it down in record time. It was okay, if not bland.

If you absolutely must visit Calico Jack's Cantina, keep in mind that it's a college bar masquerading as a restaurant by day.

And should you covet "Shake it like Shakira" contests and $2 Miller Lite specials, I know where you can procure a voucher or two.

August 1, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (0)

July 30, 2007

The Dish on Dish: Muriel's Brunch

Michael Vivar, Dish's intrepid food reporter, swoons

I am aware that the Pittsburgh Family Dish already gave their opinion regarding Muriel’s diner, but I felt that the restaurant’s quality is such that it warranted the Asian Stallion of Food Criticism to briefly come out of hiatus and expound further on the place -- specifically its position as being poised to take the crown of “Sunday Brunch Queen of Pittsburgh.”

I admit that I was reluctant to try something new due to my short time back in the ‘Burgh and a desire to revisit the known quantity of one of my Sunday staples. It was Katie’s insistence that dragged me out of my brunchy womb of comfort. We arrived around 11 a.m., which I think was the perfect hour in the middle of this incessant heat wave. It allowed us to sit outside and not be overburdened by the harsh heat of the sun. The pleasantness of the day was compounded by complimentary mimosas being placed in our hands. While it wasn’t exactly a replacement for my beloved brunch ale, the briskly perfect mix of champagne and orange juice invigorated the senses.

Delving straight into a main course, Katie ordered Eggs Pomodoro ($6.95). It consisted of two poached eggs each served over breaded and grilled tomato, both individually given a dollop of hollandaise sauce. The eggs were just the way she liked them, with the yoke cooked solid only half-way through and a center that was slightly runny. The hollandaise sauce was extremely fresh and the cook used it merely as a complement to the other flavors without slathering the stuff on. The light breading on the ripe tomato gave a body to the meal that made the included side of toast a bit superfluous.

I had Buckwheat Pancakes ($5.95) with two slices of bacon (add $1). Those who make buckwheat pancakes walk a fine line when trying to please people who are fanatic about the dish. Too much buckwheat and it turns out too dry and mealy. Too little and you merely get something little better than Bisquik. The Muriel’s preparation walks this line with the grace of an old vaudevillian. They were hearty enough to feel satisfying between the tongue and teeth while being moist and yielding after that first chew. My only modification to the meal would have been to add one more slice of bacon or one egg. I do, however, submit to having a heightened protein preference with my meals than some.

The quality of raw materials with which the restaurant starts, along with a sense of love that permeates the atmosphere and preparation of the dishes, makes Muriel’s an absolute joy.

Muriel’s recently won first place in the American cuisine in a recent P-G dining poll. A little birdie tells Dish that a full review will appear in their Weekend Section on Thursday. Hah, Dish got there first. Eat that Big Media.

July 30, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Michael Vivar, North Side, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (0)

June 26, 2007

Little book the toast of the town

Dish chats with one of the authors of "Where We Like To Eat n' At"

Sitting in a wooden booth at the Monterey Pub on the North Side last night, Gail Nesbitt Jones beamed as she answered questions about her new book, "Where We Like To Eat n' At." The 50-something mother of three was there with family and friends as Dish "staff" mobbed her as if she were a rock star. Since the book came out only a few days ago, she and co-author Marsha Dugan Kolbe have become unwitting celebrities in Pittsburgh.

The book, which features 57 neighborhood restaurants and watering holes, came about on a lark. Nesbitt Jones, of Mt. Lebonon and Kolbe, of Highland Park, enjoy galavanting through Pittsburgh neighborhoods in search of local fare. After many calories consumed and tabs paid, they decided "why not?"

They teamed up with illustrator Lani Challburgh Walker whose delightful drawings accompany each location. The slim volume took off and the mothers became local media darlings.

"I never thought this would happen," laughed Nesbitt Jones. "I'm going to be on the radio, whould've thought that!"

The Monterey Pub is featured in the book. "This is the kind of place that defines a neighborhood restaurant," she said. "This is one of the many reasons I love this city."

The $10 book is available at local bookstores and can be purchased on their website.

June 26, 2007 in Books & Reading, Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (0)

June 12, 2007

The Dish on Dish: Jerome Bettis' Grille 36

We try not to insult an icon

Photos by Frank Kownacki. Click for larger views.

The waitress, wearing the Grille 36 lady waitstaff uniform—a yellow tank top covered by a black tube top, which, let Dish assure you, is a combo flattering to no one—approached the table on the patio outside Jerome Bettis' new restaurant. She proudly told Mr. and Mrs. Dish and their Dining companions that the beer list featured 32 options, "Just like the number 32 Jerome wore."

This kind of error surpasses the inexcusable; and, perhaps, rises to the blasphemous. Not only regarding Bettis, but His heroic predecessor, Franco Harris.

In any event, this snafu was a harbinger of things to come.

Sitting in the evening sun betwixt Heinz Field and PNC Park, Mr. and Mrs. Dish ordered draft beers to slake their thirst. They tasted as though something foul had fouled the tap lines. These beers were sent back.

Mrs. Dish ordered a bottle of Yuengeling. That turned out fine. Mr. Dish ordered an Iron City. Out came an I.C. Light, which was sent back. About 10 minutes later, the proper beer arrived. It was consumed. Another of its kind was ordered. Out came an I.C. Light. It was sent back. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Dinner was ordered. The Dishes and their dining chums were somewhat surprised to find that a side salad was not included in the price of a pasta dinner. Needing greens, Mr. Dish dropped another $3.95 on the foliage, as did Pregnant Lady Buddy of the Dishes. The salad, let it be said, was fine

Entrees arrive. Mr. Dish's rigatoni with spicy sausage looked appealing. Sadly, the sauce was too sweet and too plentiful. 'Twas almost like pasta soup. A nice touch, though, were the whole spinach leaves interspersed in the sauce and pasta. The nice touch was ruined when Mr. Dish realized the kitchen had not been instructed to wash the leafy green before serving. Mr. Dish does not like his spinach gritty.

Impregnating Chum of Dish had a plain 'ol burger topped with cheese and a portabella mushroom cap. The burger was quality, though overdone by medium rare standards. No big deal, though, as ICoD was the first to join the clean plate club at the table of four.

Mrs. Dish had the ribs. An awful lot of ribs. When Mrs. Dish ordered, she was somewhat surprised that the waitress asked her how she wanted them done, assuming there was only one way to have them: Cooked. The sauce, sadly, couldn't be tasted, though the ribs themselves were juicy and meaty; which is just the way one wants one's juicy meat.

PLBoD enjoyed her macaroni and cheese. Though a bit on the cold side when it reached table side, the creamy/crunchiness was pleasing to the palate. Mr.Dish would comment more on PLBoD's dish, but he hates cheese and wouldn't really look at the stuff, let alone taste it.

Complaints aside, Grille 36 has redeemin