May 16, 2008
Farmers' Market opens today
The North Side Farmers' Market swings into season at 3:30 this afternoon in East Park on the corner of East Ohio Street & Cedar Avenue. For info on other markets throughout the city go here.
May 16, 2008 in Food and Drink, North Side, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (0)
May 13, 2008
Moo-ving devotion
North Side florist sells Best Chocolate Milk in the Universe
Last week, Dish reported that Kerry Kennedy, proprietor of K.S. Kennedy Distinctive Floral, Gift, & Gourmet and #1 Brunton Dairy Fan (along with Mrs. Dish), hoped to find a North Side retailer to sell the glass-bottled milk. Judging on the amount of neighbors who've been asking Kennedy to fetch milk for them, he believes there's a market for this elixir d'amooore.
Afraid local retailers might be wee bit lactose intolerant, Kennedy's contacted Brunton Dairy to to inquire about selling the milk in his Allegheny West floral and gift shop. Adequate cooler space provides plenty of room for milk and petunias to chill comfortably.Though Kennedy hasn't heard from the Brunton Family yet, he has some items available for sale today:
-Milk: Two chocolate, two strawberry, two (low-fat) white. Half-gallon bottles are $3 each plus $1.35 deposit.
-Brunton Dairy t-shirts ($15 each)
Also, if you're interested in placing an order, contact Kennedy at 412-322-ROSE.
May 13, 2008 in Business & Retail, North Side, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (0)
April 28, 2008
Family recipe revived
Beloved Homewood BBQ sauce returns
Woodside Restaurant closed in 1995 after having been in business on Frankstown Avenue in Homewood-Brushton for 35 years. Owners Henrietta and Allen Williams' popular spot was gone and so was their signature secret barbecue sauce.
Until now.
The Williams' nephew, Ronald "P-Nut" Burke, has created what he and others believe tastes closest to the original sauce. Burke's "Woodside's All Purpose Mustard Sauce" is the result of years of talking to relatives and patrons of the restaurant to replicate the complex flavor and thick texture.
"My mom conjured up something close to it and we worked on it to get it right," said Burke. "The response from the community indicated it was."
Burke jars about for cases a week in a separate kitchen in his Penn Hills home. He sells through word-of-mouth and by phone.
The brown mustard-based sauce, sold hot or mild ($5/16oz; $10/32 oz), can be used for grilling all types of meat or as a dipping sauce for veggies and cheese. Many of his customers use it on ribs, hot dogs, burgers, chicken, fish and fries.
Dish slathered the hot version over a pork loin this weekend (after marinating it for about an hour) and the smoky mustard flavor with nutty undertones was outstanding. This locally-made sauce is a must-try this summer.
Call Burke at 412-969-6198 to place an order.
April 28, 2008 in Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (1)
March 26, 2008
Big Mama on the small screen
House of Soul in the Strip featured on CBS
Dish was the first to report on Big Mama's House of Soul, now she's caught the attention of the The Early Show on CBS. This first installment of Mama's restaurant "makeover" aired this morning and there are more segments to come over the next few days.
Congrats Mama!
March 26, 2008 in Boob Tube, Food and Drink, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (4)
March 25, 2008
The Dish on Dish: 900 Cafe and Lounge
by Michael Vivar
Despite a better-than-middling location and a fabulous space, eateries and drinkeries that attempt to ensconce themselves in Allegheny West's 900 Western Avenue tend to have the life spans of mayflies. For a short while it was “too cool for you” True, a scene to be seen gay club, and then for an even shorter while it was “are we cool ye… oops. We’re closed” Nuance. With this in mind, Katie and I tried to dine at the 900 Café and Lounge before they had to scrape the logo from the window and leave under cover of night.
The décor hadn’t changed much since its previous iterations. Except for the lighting being more family friendly and the lack of shabby queens affecting Kate Hepburn, the place has maintained its minimalist style with amusing accents of Jackson Pollock-esque art on the walls (this will, apparently change from month to month). We were seated at a high table on barstools surrounded by an amusing pastiche of neighborhood folk and squealing CCAC girls.
The menu isn’t what you’d call extensive. Having been the evening of Good Friday, Katie was expecting some sort of fish special, but was disappointed. There wasn’t even a vegetarian entrée option. So she opted for a mushroom crottin appetizer to which our waitress generously added a sweet potato side dish at no extra charge when we were dismayed by their lack of land-meat free choices. Katie very much enjoyed the mushroom dish. I admit, I only had a bite, but I thought the use of button mushrooms lent too strong of a flavor and there was too much of a struggle between this and the flavor of the cheese. Her sweet potato side, though, was met with unanimous applause. The sweet potato was lightly mashed or pureed, giving it a not-too-smooth texture and was sprinkled, on top, with a sort of bread crumb sparingly sweetened with brown sugar. This portion’s mild deliciousness was a nice respite from the palate struggle of the mushroom crottin.
As my religious tendencies tend toward non-practicing, I ordered the braised beef brisket for my dinner. The strips of beef came apart enticingly with a gentle prodding of my fork, but I found it to be a little to dry. The accompanying barbecue sauce, however, was absolutely heavenly – sweet without being too cloying. It also came with a sweet potato side and some lightly seasoned tomatoes. My sweet potatoes, unlike Katie’s, were unadorned and fairly unspectacular, and I often found myself eyeing her dish enviously. The tomatoes, while very ripe and sweet, had a tart quality that clashed with the aforementioned barbecue sauce.
Altogether, the experience at the 900 Café and Lounge was relatively plain but, I have to admit, intriguing. The owner/chef was very exuberant in asking our opinion of the meal and, when comments were made, he seemed to genuinely take them into account. This is in stark contrast to the cold shoulders given by previous iterations of 900 Western. So I hope to be able to return and see what else is in store for this newly friendly and welcoming venue.
900 boasts a full-service bar and outdoor seating with heat lamps for smokers.
March 25, 2008 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Michael Vivar, North Side, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (2)
March 17, 2008
Scoop du Jour
900 Cafe & Lounge (pictured) on Western Avenue in Allegheny West (next door to the Modern Cafe) is open.
From their MySpace page:
900's Lounge has a full-service bar and dining area that caters to a wide variety of cuisine. The bar features outdoor seating which lends itself to a romantic atmosphere for those that enjoy a tranquil moment. Arrive early to ensure you get the treasured hideaway cove-seating by the fireplace. With your hot chocolate in hand, enjoy the aroma of fresh baked pastries and other decedent items. The bar and cafe are smoke free but with our comfortable outdoor patio allows smokers the ability to enjoy everything we have to offer.
900 will feature art by local Pittsburgh artist on bi-monthly basis.
Open daily 6 p.m.-2 a.m.
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Benkovitz Seafood now serves breakfast.
The “Breakfast at Benkovitz” menu includes a seafood bake, seafood scrambled eggs and seafood breakfast burritos, all featuring crab and shrimp. Meals include sides of bacon, homemade roasted potatoes and multigrain toast. Muffins, Danish and croissants also are available, including lox on croissants, with cream cheese.
Breakfasts can be served to eat in or to “grab ‘n go.” Hot coffee is free during breakfast hours, no purchase necessary.
Benkovitz, at 23rd and Smallman streets, is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. till 6 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. till 5 p.m. Free parking available. Phone: 412-488-FISH.
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New Moon, an Asian fusion restaurant near PNC Park has closed. Business was slow to pick up, despite positive reviews.
March 17, 2008 in Business & Retail, North Side, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (0)
February 25, 2008
Modern-ized
Photo by Frank Kownacki. Click image for larger view.
"The Modern Cafe," located on Western Avenue in Allegheny West, has long been a fine place to enjoy an adult beverage with its cheap, cold drafts, red vinyl booths, fine sound system and commendable jukebox (though it is digital). In the 1990s, the Modern's retro charm caught the lens of the filmmakers who committed Michael Chabon’s novel “Wonder Boys” to celluloid but, thankfully, it hasn't been swarmed with Roller Derby hipsters or tourists in need of a good slumming.
On Steelers Sundays, the place is a rest stop for fans in need of a boost on the way to or from their cars. And for a while, Karaoke packed the place with off-key revelers. The Modern has always gone quietly about its business, never suffering from an identity crisis. It is what it is, a solid neighborhood bar that just so happens to be super cool.
In the coming days, the Modern will gently introduced some small, but significant, changes. In addition to a sampling of fried fare, co-owner Dean Zotis will offer panini sandwiches until closing. Zotis owns The Little Deli down the block and delivers take-out lunch orders to the Modern. Coming soon—as soon as the panini press he ordered comes in—he'll offer grilled sandwiches into the evening.
A growing selection of microbrews is also on tap as well as is a jazz night, an endeavor he's cooking up with Muriel's, the fine restaurant down the street. Zotis will also welcome Muriel's diners who need a place to wait for a table. When your table is ready, Muriel's will call the Modern.
Neighborhood imbibers welcome this news as the Monterey Pub in the Mexican War Streets is becoming more of a restaurant than a bar. The increasing popularity of the Pub is making it difficult for beer-soaked regulars to cop a squat and booze away the evening in comfort. The Pub now takes reservations for large parties, and on many nights you must put your name on a list to get a booth in which to enjoy a beer. Good for the Pub, bad for the genteel neighborhood wastrel.
The Pub is also banning smoking come the end of March. In a way, Dish is OK with this as the decision was made by ownership, not the state. On the other hand, both halves of Dish smoke, which makes us less inclined to patronize a business that makes us less than welcome.
So, the Pub's going modern and, thank heavens, the Modern's going just a little pub.
862 Western Ave Pittsburgh, PA 15233 (412) 321-4550February 25, 2008 in Beer, Business & Retail, Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (15)
February 13, 2008
T - 20.5 hours and counting
Chocolate Babka!
This highly addictive BreadWorks masterpiece is made just two days a year, and tomorrow (Valentine’s Day) is one of them. It’s bread, it’s dessert, it’s breakfast….it’s amazing. Don’t wait for the 5:30 half-price deal – this is worth the full $5.50, and if they sell out you’ll have to wait until Mothers Day to try again. Get your order in ASAP!
BreadWorks
2110 Brighton Rd, North Side, 412-231-7555
-Tiffani Emig
February 13, 2008 in Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (3)
February 07, 2008
Mattress Factory cafe reopens
Noted chef heads up museum eatery
On Feb. 21, the Mattress Factory will host a grand opening of the BoxSpring Café, formally the Coca Cafe. Located in the lobby of the museum’s main building at 500 Sampsonia Way, the BoxSpring Café will offer selections created by chef Rich Rosenthal of M Catering. The vegetarian-friendly menu includes soups, salads, sandwiches, specialty entrées and flatbread pizza. Outdoor seating is available (weather permitting).
Rich launched his career at the The Carlton, and soon became a managing chef at Café Azure.
The BoxSpring Café Grand Opening party will be held on Thursday, Feb. 21 at 7 p.m. Selections from the Spring menu will be available as well as live acoustic entertainment and complementary wine. Admission is $10.00 ($5.00 for members/students). For more information and to download the BoxSpring menu in PDF format, visit the Mattress Factory website.
February 7, 2008 in Food/Restaurant reviews, Mexican War Streets, North Side, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (0)
January 22, 2008
The Dish on Dish: Hoi Polloi
by Emilia Boehm
So, by now you’ve probably driven by or hopefully even visited the newest legitimate business in Allegheny City, the lovely vegetarian café/coffeehouse that is Hoi Polloi, owned by Jessica Burgan and Sandra Telep (pictured). You should have at least read the earlier Dish coverage on the Hoi, but if you haven’t done any of these things, here’s your motivation, slackers.
Should you be as linguistically challenged as the taller half of these sometime Dish correspondents, you’ll need to know that “Hoi Polloi” means “common people,” and is indeed Latin and not some branch of Pacific Islander speak. (Sounds like it could be, though, right?) This is relevant because Hoi Polloi has a friendly, comforting vibe in a relaxed setting—a welcoming spot for the “common people,” and all the rest of us North Side rabble. It’s the kind of place you can grab a coffee and a snack and veg out for a bit.
Hoi Polloi’s small menu consists of simple, familiar dishes made with quality ingredients. And the fare is—gasp—vegetarian. This of course thrills the shorter correspondent, who, while a recovering vegetarian, continues to be quite fond of meatless meals. As a dedicated carnivore, I was considerably skeptical, but have been repeatedly and pleasantly surprised. On a number of trips to the Hoi, we’ve enjoyed tasty treats such as grilled cheese sammiches, tomato and mozzarella quesadillas, and vegetarian chili (one neighbor mentioned it was the best veggie chili they've ever tasted). The mango wrap is a favorite, filled with scrumptious fresh mango and red onion salsa, black beans and rice. Daily specials and soups of the day spice up the menu; the corn and zucchini soup was smooth, fresh, and not ruined by an overactive salt shaker.
Should you find yourself at the Hoi in a more breakfasty mood, you’ll find the classics: bagels, muffins, oatmeal, bottled juices and smoothies. We shared a lovely yogurt parfait, for which we were given our choice of fresh fruit (we chose blueberries and red pear) served over a slightly sweetened plain yogurt and a dried stone fruit laced granola. The grilled Nutella left the shorter smiling through the smathering of creamy Nutella topped with sliced banana, served open-faced on chewy, toasted farm bread. The coffee and espresso from fair-trade, organic Dean’s Beans in Massachusetts are strong yet non-acidic and can be made into the standard assortment of caffeinated beverages.
Perhaps the most soothing feature of the Hoi is the prices – almost everything on the menu can be acquired for less than $5, with only the salads drifting slightly above the head of Mr. Lincoln.
If you’re looking for large quantities, head to Eat’n Park. If you want fancy, reserve a table at Lamont. But if you’re looking for foodstuffs that are affordable, light and healthy, Hoi Polloi is your woman.
Hoi Polloi
1100 Galveston (corner of W. North), North Side
Mon.-Thurs: 6 a.m. - 9 pm.; Fri: 6 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Sat: 7 a.m. -10 p.m.; Sun.: 1 p.m. - 9 p.m.
January 22, 2008 in Caffeine, Food/Restaurant reviews, North Side, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (4)
January 14, 2008
Scoop du Jour: Beleza & the Benedum
ART OPENING POTLUCK for Assemblages, this Friday, Jan. 18 from 6:30 to 10p.m. at Beleza Community Coffeehouse (1501 Buena Vista, North Side, 412-321-4210).
Assemblages will feature works from our neighborhood's very own Nathan Nissim, an avid collector-turned-artist who creates unique and often humorous assemblages from anything and everything. For those unfamiliar with the term, Wikipedia explains that "Assemblage is an artistic process in which a three-dimensional artistic composition is made from putting together found objects. Assemblage is the 3-dimensional cousin of collage." These pieces combine new and old, tacky and beautiful, strange and common; ultimately composing intriguing little works of art.
Bring food, friends and family and check out some great local art!
Read about Nissim here and here.
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Muriel’s restaurant (856 Western Ave., Allegheny West, 412-322-0476) will host their first Dinner & Theater event on Wednesday, Jan. 30, for "The Lion King" at the Benedum.
This package is less than the cost of an individual ticket. Check out the seating chart.
$125.00 per ticket will include:
1. Ticket to the show.
2. House salad
3. Choice of any entrée on the menu.
4. Coffee/tea Service.
5. No corkage fee.
6. Limousine to the Benedum
7. Pick Up after the show.
8. Coffee and dessert at Muriel's après theater.
9. All taxes and gratuities
The following seats are available…….
EE 21, 23(Sold)
FF 21, 23 (Sold)
H 101 (Sold), 102 (Sold), 103 (Sold), 104 (Sold), 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110
M 113, 114, 115,116
P 115, 116
The tickets for this event must be pre-paid by cash or credit card when they are ordered. Muriel's will accept your phone order. Send Muriel’s an email with your phone number if interested.
Also, Muriel's delivers lunch to several North Side neighborhoods. Visit their website for details.
January 14, 2008 in Arts, Caffeine, Food/Restaurant reviews, Mexican War Streets, North Side, Scoop du Jour, Theater | Permalink | Comments (0)
November 29, 2007
The Dish On Dish: Joseph Tambellini Restaurant
A family tradition hits the spot
by Michael Vivar
You can't swing a sweet chariot around town without hitting a dining establishment associated with the Tambellinis. The family maintains a stellar reputation in Pittsburgh as various branches of the tree have gone to flourish in their culinary endeavors. Thus, it was with high hopes that Katie and I went to the newest family offshoot, Joseph Tambellini's in Highland Park.
Walking into the restaurant felt like walking into someone's home. Though, at first glance, the tinted mirrors and proximity of the bar to the dining area reminded one of a 1970s key party, it seemed to work without feeling tacky. I feel that something more could be done to dampen the acoustics in the place because we could hear conversations taking place across the room.
It took some time for us to put in our initial orders because the wait staff was shorthanded. Throughout the evening, we were also attended to by the maitre d' and even the bartender. Don't take this as being indicative of the normal state of affairs, though, because we came in the Sunday after Thanksgiving. I think they were expecting people to still be picking through leftovers and not populating an almost full first floor. Also, what our waitress lacked in experience she more than made up for in friendliness. I think that a few months will find her navigating from kitchen to dining room with the best.
For our appetizer we shared their “greens and beans,” ($7) a heavenly mixture of braised white beans and escarole with Panchetta ham, garlic, olive oil and some Italian sausage thrown into the mix. It could have used less olive oil as after a few prodding forkfuls the whole thing coagulated and the flavors, especially that of the ham, became less distinguishable. What made the dish stand out was the sausage, a densely packed and spicy affair that went with the escarole and white beans beautifully.
Each entree came with a salad and pasta course. The former was chef's salad with the lovely surprises of crisp and crunch provided by the addition of sprouts and honey roasted peanuts. The latter was farfalla pasta with a veal reduction marinara sauce. The sauce was fantastically rich with chunks of veal that melted in the mouth. We were unable to finish our servings for fear of spoiling our appetites for the main course.
Katie ordered chicken marsala with white and shiitake mushrooms ($19). The chicken was so tender a knife wasn't even needed. It brought forth images of a large swarthy fellow beating the thing with a hammer until it was tenderized into submission. The firmness of the lightly sauteed mushrooms was a nice textural complement. It was doused in a darkly flavored marsala sauce that was so tasty for once I didn't mind the overly generous hand of the saucier.
I had the veal chop Saltimbocca ($36). It was a hearty 16 oz. bone-in cut basted with au jus. Tender and studded with pearls of fat, I couldn't stop eating even though I knew I was gorging myself. This was accompanied with spinach sauteed in, again, a bit too much olive oil but the oil they used was light with a hint of sweetness so I didn't mind at all. Within the spinach were bits of crackling garlic that teased the taste buds.
Before going out, Katie's diabetes monster was gurgling and making her grumpy so she was ready to eviscerate whatever restaurant in which we dined. Fortunately, our spectacular meal calmed the beast and the night turned out splendidly. Highland Park may be out of the way for some, but Joseph Tambellini's makes it a worthy destination for a meal out.
Joseph Tambellini Restaurant, 5701 Bryant Street, Highland Park, 412-665-9000
November 29, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Michael Vivar, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (0)
November 20, 2007
The Dish on Dish: Palate
by Michael Vivar
For me, one thing that robs appeal from a restaurant is buzz. When mainstream outlets such as the Post-Gazette gush about a hot new “place to go,” it raises the hackles as it usually means a “place to go” full of people I don't want to be around. I do admit to a weakness for New Yorkified French cuisine, so it was with leeriness that Katie and I went to the relatively new Downtown eatery, Palate.
The first thing we noticed as we passed the place for the umpteenth time while trying to find parking (rabble scrabble Light Up Night) was how strikingly ugly the logo is. It tries too hard to be modern, but ends up looking like a 1970s version of the future. This wouldn't be so terrible if it weren't right across the classical beauty of Heinz Hall. It was reminiscent of a beautiful woman in a Vera Wang dress who has a homely friend dressed with off-the-rack Fashion Bug in tow.
Once we got inside, we immediately forgot about the garishness of our first impression. The dining area was crowded with the pre-theater set, but but the layout prevented it from seeming cramped. Its muted color scheme and lighting along with modern artistic adornments gave away the owner's New York pedigree. It took a moment to get seated as WPXI's Gordon Loesch and his chiseled jaw were there with a camera crew covering a story. The maitre d' gave us free drinks to compensate for the wait.
I was excited about the appetizers when I saw that they served one of my favorite dishes, veal sweetbreads ($12). The were, unfortunately, a disappointment. They must have pulled the glands out of a(n even runtier than normal) veal calf because the serving was quite small and dry. This was made more obvious by it being placed by an overly sized Belgian waffle immersed in huckleberries. The whole was a gastronomic monstrosity. Katie went with the day boat scallops with butternut squash and ennis hazelnut ravioli ($14). The dish suggests that the chef works better when he/she works simply with good quality base products. The scallops were perfectly seared so that they could be sliced paper thin without being tough and had a marvelous briny flavor. This was nicely complemented by the barely cooked squash and a hint of vanilla sweetness in the ravioli.
Another disappointment was their running out of venison as I hadn't had deer in such a long time. In its stead I had beef short rib and root vegetable ragout with casarecce pasta and horseradish gremolata. The meat might have been good if the chef hadn't been so stingy with it. The pasta might have been better if it weren't so slathered with a very pedestrian gremolata. It wasn't that the dish was very bad, but very frustratingly dull.
Again, Katie fared better with her repast of organic duck. Its preparation was delightful with a leg braised with pistachio and the breast wrapped in Swiss chard and phyllo then sliced. The preparation of the former gave an airiness to normally dark-flavored duck meat while the latter preparation kept the white meat succulent.
Palate is inconsistent and lackadaisical. Its French fusion adds a much needed variety to Pittsburgh cuisine and I recommend that anyone who has no better recourse for such food to try it. However, you'll have a voice saying, in the back of your mind, “This could be much better.”
Palate Bistro, 212 Sixth Street, (across from Heinz Hall), Downtown, 412-434-1422
November 20, 2007 in Food/Restaurant reviews, Michael Vivar, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (2)
November 15, 2007
New cafe to serve the North Side
Hoi Polloi cafe to open in Allegheny West
Photos by Frank Kownacki
Jessica Burgan, 25, and Sandra Telep, 27, met almost seven years ago while attending the University of Pittsburgh. After having lived in Washington, D. C. for the last five years or so where they worked for non-profit organizations and in restaurants and coffee shops, they decided to return to the Burgh and open a café.
“We love the city and were both really committed to ending up here,” said Telep. “So when we realized that we were at a point where we wanted to put down some roots, we started making plans to move back.”
They returned to Pittsburgh in May and while house hunting they found the North Side a good fit for their personal and business needs and wanted to become part of its revitalization. They chose a building on the corner of Galveston and North Avenue in Allegheny West, a structure that included restaurant space on the first level and living space above. Remnants of the previous restaurant were stale and outdated so, with financing from the Northside Community Development Fund, the couple began the laborious make-over.
“We were so excited to see how much progress Pittsburgh had been through in the time we'd been away,” said Telep. “The North Side made sense because it's a close knit community that supports small local businesses and is on the verge of so many new projects, not to mention it's still reasonably affordable.”
Hoi Polloi will offer coffee/espresso drinks, fresh juices and smoothies and a limited menu of soups, sandwiches, salads, and a special or two. Between wielding table saws and hammers, they’ve been scouring thrift stores and IKEA to strike the right balance for an eclectic décor.
Telep said they aren't aiming to be a five-star restaurant, but more a place with quick, easy, wholesome food. The menu will be vegetarian, but everyone should be able to find something to suit their taste (even dedicated carnivores), she said.
“The truth is, even though we have some experience, we are basically flying by the seat of our pants and learning as we go,” said Telep. “Still, we're optimistic and really grateful for the support we've received so far. Allegheny West Civic Council wrote us a letter of support, the Beleza Community Coffeehouse folks offered their help and have shared their own opening horror stories and Terra Jones [of Amani International Coffeehouse & Café] was really sweet and welcoming."
Burgan and Telep are gunning to open for the Allegheny West Christmas Tour on Dec. 8.
Follow the café’s progress on their blog.
Above: Telep (left) and Burgan pose behind a power tool.
November 15, 2007 in Business & Retail, Food and Drink, News , North Side, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (5)
November 13, 2007
Scoop du Jour
A plea, a pint and food on the move
Dear Dish Readers,
I'm hoping you can help me out with a problem I've had for years here in Pittsburgh: the quest for a great bagel. I'm a native New Yorker living in the 'burgh, and I grew up on H&H bagels, probably the best bagels on the planet. When I first came out here, I was extremely disappointed with the quality of bagel selection (and dumbfounded as to how a true Jewish bagel never made its way out to Pittsburgh). For the last four years, I've been having my relatives back home freeze and ship real bagels to me from NYC (I kid you not). I think it's about time to try and find one decent place around here that makes a true bagel.
Thank you,
Andrew
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In The Night Kitchen, part of Pittsburgh's growing nomadic food scene, will be at Break Even Coffee this Friday and Saturday evening. For more information visit In the Night Kitchen's blog. Read about the local traveling food movent, written by yours truly, Mrs. Dish, in the next issue of the City Paper which hits the stands tomorrow.
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From Scott at East End Brewing Company:
2007 East End Brewing Charity Open House
Tickets go on sale SATURDAY NOVEMBER 10th at Growler Hours!
SATURDAY, DECEMBER 8th:
Afternoon Session: 12-3pm
Evening Session: 5-8pm
Hoity-toity VIP Session- a.k.a. "Bigs, Bugs, Bottle Conditioned": 4-5pm This is a collection of long lost East End Brews from my personal stash, some sour ales, and some vintage bottles - and maybe a surprise or two. Tickets for this session may only be purchased WITH an Evening Session ticket, and will cost you 15 bucks more. Space and in some cases, BEER is limited.)
Advanced Tickets are $35. After 5pm on December 1st, tickets are $45.
This gets you...
An East End Brewing Pint Glass
Tastings of at least 10 East End Beers on tap, on cask, and in bottles - including two brand new beers.
"THREE" our bottle conditioned Triple Anniversary Ale
Session Ale #8 - to be named that day
Great food from Pittsburgh area restaurants
Bigelow Grille
Church Brew Works
Harris Grill (amazing how they continue make great food without a restaurant!)
Kelly's Bar and Lounge
Mad Mex
Piper's Pub
Sharp Edge Restaurants
Access to raffles, gift baskets, and even beer to go! (Yes, we'll somehow still manage to be open for Growlers 12-5pm that day)
TICKETS ARE AVAILABLE AT THE BREWERY - there is also chance of some on-line ticket sales, but we're still working on that. So don't count on anything... come get them at the brewery while the gettin's good!
I fully expect the second session to sell out first, and with any luck, we'll fill the first one too, and raise some nice money for PLEA. 100% of the money you pay for your ticket will go to provide respite support to families of kids with special needs.
November 13, 2007 in Beer, Food and Drink, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (3)
November 08, 2007
The Dish on Dish: Geno's Restaurant
Warm, delicious and friendly
by Michael Vivar
The night was frigid and the wind tunnel effect on Butler Street seemed to give me and Katie an extra shove through the door of Geno’s in Lawrenceville. We sidled up to the bar and joined the Dish Duo for a drink and to take in the surroundings. The bar area has a cozy “slump your shoulders” feel to it with a relaxing dim lighting scheme. After the rest of the party finished their various drinks and I a perfect martini (stirred so as to not bruise the flavor), we were led into the dining room, which was a bit jarring. After getting used to a bar atmosphere, I was surprised to enter a lovely family-style dining area. I liked that this was a place where you could toss a few back after work and bring your family.
We sat in the midst of empty tables at first, but as another hour wore on, people began pouring in, greeting each other with familiarity, which lent an atmosphere of warm neighborhood dining.
Katie and I started with what was advertised as a baked brie. We were expecting some batter dipped concoction drizzled with fruit sauce. What we were presented, though, was much more savory. Thin wedges of brie were wrapped in ham slices and served on unleavened flatbread. The ham did an excellent job of keeping the gooey brie goodness together. Mr. and Mrs. Dish shared an order of fried calamari. We weren’t impressed with the looks of the serving at first as it appeared to be brown and overcooked. Upon biting into the morsels, we were duly impressed by its perfectly cooked flavor and texture. I suspect that it was cooked in moderately used oil, which provided the brown color, but this method infuses a stronger taste from the fried fabulousness that have gone in before. Also a hit was the tomato basil soup; a rich, complex mixture that left us a full yet wanting more.
Having been told that the owner of the restaurant is a native New Englander, they opted for seafood dishes. Mrs. Dish had a shrimp scampi pasta. The pasta was nicely al dente and the pedigree of the owner did not disappoint as the shrimp tasted as if they’d been plucked from the nets that morning. Mr. Dish ordered a seafood medley over pasta. The scallops were of the same high quality, but the mussels were a touch overdone and rubbery.
Katie had spaghetti with meatballs and sausage. It’s an excellent staple dish for one not feeling all that adventurous. When I ordered a rib-eye steak, I requested that it not be trimmed too much as I prefer a fatty cut. Lisa Giguere, our waitress and Geno's co-owner informed me that they never trim their steaks as “fat is love.” At this point I was entirely won over and the actual steak didn’t disappoint. It was cooked to my discerning and bloody standards with yummy fat glistening on its edges.
In all, it was a lovely experience that blunted all of our distaste for crossing the river.
| Geno's Restaurant and Big Belly Deli. 5147 Butler Street, Lawrenceville, 412-781-3432 |
November 8, 2007 in Food/Restaurant reviews, Michael Vivar, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (3)
October 26, 2007
The Dish on Dish: Bistro to Go
by Mary Aicher
Photos by Frank Kownacki
This month, a beautiful new storefront opened on East Ohio Street, and Dish hopes Bistro To Go will spawn a revitalization of like-minded enterprises.
Dish decided to drop in on the new eatery Thursday night, and we were not disappointed. Ms. Dish, Significant Other Dish and Dish Jr. arrived just before closing time at 7 p.m. to find a packed restaurant. The special was lasagna, and we recommend it.
We received a huge portion, along with a side (we chose zucchini) and a roll. Dish Jr. got a child's portion of fantastic pasta with tomato sauce, a roll and a bowl of fresh fruit. Bistro To Go employees were even kind enough to melt some cheese on top of the pasta for Dish Jr.!
About four minutes and $17 later, we were out the door. Even though we ate at home and not at the restaurant, the food was fantastic and reasonably priced. The rest of the menu features salads, sandwiches and daily offerings of vegetables, potato salad and other items. There is plenty of seating inside given the crowd, and there is an outdoor patio that we look forward to trying out during warmer temps.
Our neighborhood needs to support businesses like this that invest in our future and bring quality, affordable, choices to the North Side. If you haven't tried Bistro To Go, please do. And encourage your friends and neighbors to do the same.
Maybe more new businesses will populate along North Avenue and East Ohio Street in the future, making our neighborhood that much better.
October 26, 2007 in Food/Restaurant reviews, North Side, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (3)
October 23, 2007
The Dish on Dish: Oh Yeah!
The scoop on Shadyside's swank ice creamatorium
by Michael Vivar
Nestled in a cozy space on Highland Avenue, the confectionary boutique is an entirely green space. While this might conjure, for some, mental images of a hippie commune where people sit on bald radial tires and eat off of scavenged plywood and cinder block tables, the reality is a cheerfully bright space that lightens the mood of our increasingly grey Pittsburgh days. Now on to the sweet treats.
The shop features flavors and toppings that boggle the mind such as pineapple and goat cheese and beef jerky respectively. On our first outing, though, we didn’t tread too far off the beaten path. Katie bent to her Green Isle heritage and had a scoop of Irish Cream with a scoop of sugar free vanilla (Huzzah for looking out for the diabetics!) along with a sprinkling of gummy bears. I had a scoop of “five-star” chocolate, a scoop of mocha tofu ice cream, and a dash of habanero.
Before I get to the quality of our repast, let me tell you of how these flavors are mixed together. They have a machine that I can only assume was inspired by the Spanish Inquisition. It’s a large mixing drill that the ice cream slinger plunges into the dessert with the gusto of Torquemada on a heretic. The flavors are completely mixed and the process is such that every time we’ve been to the shop, every customer gets a six-year old’s gleam in their eye that says, “I wanna try!”
Katie’s concoction was divine. “Oh Yeah” gets their ice cream from “Woo City,” a company that prides itself on their use of Amish cows and unrefined sugars. We could taste this difference from dessert producers that, apparently, threaten their cows with electrical appliances. The Irish Cream was delightful and their sugar free vanilla didn’t have that chalky taste you’ll find in much artificially sweetened fare.
Mine was equally good, and surprisingly so. After having many pints of reprehensible Tofutti being forced upon me by well-meaning friends, I was glad that the mocha was sensed by my palate as being mocha and not, well, tofu. The addition of habanero gave the whole thing a hot bite that was pleasant in the brisk Autumn day.
I’ve heard criticism about the supposedly exorbitant price at “Oh Yeah!” but I say “bosh!” to that. We paid around $10 for our indulgence and I believe the quality and experience were well worth the cost. In addition, a person would pay a comparable amount at one of the ever-expanding chain frou frou ice cream concerns and would find these places laughably pedestrian compared to this home town concern. Oh yeah, they’re dog friendly, so Cora the Love Pig is happy, and that’s all that really matters.
"Oh Yeah!" is located at 232 Highland Ave., Shadyside.
October 23, 2007 in Food/Restaurant reviews, Michael Vivar, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (0)
October 08, 2007
A new bean in town
The coffee Mr. Dish is consuming costs $50 a pound. It is excellent. Mr. Dish is much, much swanker than you.
"Swanker?" you say. "Perhaps. But this Dish fellow is not smarter. Who the hell would pay that kind of scratch for coffee."
Au contraire mon frere. Mr. Dish didn't pay a dime for the half pound of Peet's Panama Esmeralda Geisha he brewed this morn'. He and the missus had been invited to the Strip District's Eleven by Peet's people for a "cupping" at which many fine coffees were paired with three Eleven-produced desserts (chocolate-caramel candy bar, banana cream pie, and blackberry tart, all divine).
To curry favor, the Peet's rep sent the Dishes home with 8 ounces of the Esmeralda Geisha and another 12 ounces of Peet's Sumatra. It worked. Dish is that cheap. (Also we really liked the coffee.)
So why were Peet's "coffee educator" Erica Hess and Big Burrito (institutional papa of Eleven) corporate chef Bill Fuller being so nice to the Dishes? Well, as regards Fuller, he loves Peet's coffee and is a regular mail-order client. Hess was there to herald Peet's arrival in the Pittsburgh market.
The California-based coffee roaster opens few of its coffee shops outside the west coast. Peet's freaks only option was to mail order their beans. In the last month, Peet's has arranged to sell its delicious beans in the region's Giant Eagle supermarkets.
Here's the rundown on the three coffees Dish tasted at Eleven.
* The Panama Esmeralda Geisha. Strong but clear flavor with citrus tones. Very fragrant.
* The Sumatra. Mighty.
* The Major Dickason's blend. Flavorful yet mellow. Kinda soothing, actually.
So, the Geisha was spectacular, alright. But why so expensive? Well, the beans are grown in one tiny area high in the Boquete region of Panama, so there's not much of it. When coffee roasters came across the stuff, they found it amazing. In 2007, only 215 50-pound sacks of the stuff were produced. Peet's got 50 of them.
One of the things that makes Peet's Peet's is that they roast no coffee before its time. Their fancy new Bay Area roasting plant receives orders, roasts the requested batches and sends them out the same day. Roasted coffee is not warehoused by Peet's. For this reason, Hess used the word "fresh" no fewer than 1,382 times during Dish's tasting.
Founder Alfred Peet, the "grandfather of specialty coffee" who died in August, would have it no other way. Peet tutored Starbucks in the early 70s and the Seattle owners considered themselves kindred spirits with Grandpa. Now the two chains are considered rivals, even though Peet's focus is retail, not coffee bars.
High quality + limited availability = costly. Simple, right?
Dish, as impressed as we are with Peet's, had to inform Hess that we must remain loyal to our local shop, Beleza. Dish can only be rented. It cannot be bought.
For more on Peets, go to www.peets.com
October 8, 2007 in Business & Retail, Caffeine, Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (3)
September 19, 2007
The Dish on Dish: Folino's
Folino's Ristorante is molto bene (very good, for yinz English-only speakers)
by Yvonne Hudson
Dish has been on a bit of a restaurant tear lately. We're on a mission to try out all restaurants -- new and established -- in our fair city.
That brings us to a South Side establishment called Folino's Ristorante, which opened in 2005 after operating for years as Young's Tavern (the locals still call it Young's). You may recall it's where B-list bombshell Sienna Miller threw a hissy fit and was thrown to the curb. Folino's celebrates the incident with t-shirts.
The intimate Italian eatery featured a piano player tickling the ivories with Sinatra and other classics while a Dish staffer and a companion perused the menu. We ordered a nice Pinot Grigio and ordered Bruschetta (we like Bruschetta, OK? We realize that's a recurring theme in our restaurant vists, but deal with it).
When our entrees arrived, we were not disappointed. A wonderful blackened Ahi tuna with fresh veggies arrived looking sumptuous and an entrée of shrimp scampi tossed in white wine sauce did not disappoint. The waiter was fantastic, and the atmosphere was relaxing.
What we especially liked about Folino's was that even though it's located on the South Side, it's not sterotypically "South Side" and hosts diners in jeans, college students, more conservative guests and a variety of ages.
The food is the draw, and it's worth the headache of traversing the Carson Street traffic.
Folino's, 1719 E. Carson St., 412-488-8108.
September 19, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (0)
August 22, 2007
Scoop du Jour: Hot off the grill
Wednesday recommendations: Kelly's Diner & Verdetto's
The Big Country Breakfast and the Mixed grille at Kelly's Diner
Hungry as a lumberjack? Hungover as Dean Martin on a Tuesday? Order The Big Country and a large Coke at Kelly's. This Brighton Heights spot will fix what ails you with three pancakes, three eggs, meat, homefries and toast for $6.99.
Also try a Mixed Grille: four eggs scrambled with sausage, homefries, onions, green peppers & cheese. Also $6.99.
Kelly's serves breakfast all day, their bread is from the Breadworks, the staff is friendly and attentive.
(Owner Kelly Mehler and her family also own J & J's Family Restaurant & Catering in Mount Washington.)
Kelly's Diner & Catering
3053 Brighton Rd, North Side,
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Beer-battered fish sandwich at Verdetto's
The fish was suitably flaky, much in the manner of the gentleman who consumed it. The batter held a hint of Iron (or, perhaps, it was the Iron City draft Mr. Dish consumed alongside his meal that did the trick), but didn’t overwhelm the delicate whitefish. The fries, seemingly handcut, were a treat. That little bit of skin left on the tater makes a big difference when it comes to deep-fried starchy goodness. Verdetto's beer is cheap, the atmosphere is pleasant, the bar is oak and the place is spotless.
Verdetto's Bar & Restaurant
814 Madison Ave., North Side, 412-231-7696
Open 7 days.
Cash Only! An ATM machine is on site.
Photo by Frank Kownacki
August 22, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, North Side, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (1)
August 01, 2007
The Dish on Dish: Calico Jack's Cantina
by Julie Letsky
One recent weekday afternoon, some friends and I ventured to Calico Jack's Cantina, a new Mexican food-themed eatery just down the street from Grille 36 on the North Shore .
Bad move on our part.
Now, we aren't particularly picky people. Really, we aren't. Seriously.
But our dining experience was not one we'd care to repeat.
Though the restaurant was nearly empty, our waitress did not appear to take our drink orders for 10 minutes. Then, another 15 minutes passed before she appeared again to inquire about appetizers.
Moments away from starvation, we relented. We would, in fact, love a nosh. We ordered a little medley that included chicken wings, black bean taquitos and nachos with salsa.
Fifteen minutes later, out come our black bean taquitos and nachos with salsa. No wings. The waitress didn't recall hearing us order them, but she'd be glad to put the order in right away.
Well, considering 40 minutes of our Calico Jack's experience had already passed and we hadn't even gotten to the point of ordering entrees, we passed. We ordered (I ordered chicken and beef chimichanga's with cheese, guac and sour cream for $13) and waited for our food. Other items selected by our friends included a blackened chicken burrito with rice, shrimp fajitas and a carribean burrito.
The menu was not varied; mostly it featuring burritos, fajitas and chimichangas. Prices for appetizers ranged from $6 to $13 and entrees were reasonably priced, many under $13 or $14.
While we waited for our meals, we found something in the salsa that wasn't tomato or onion. We won't scare you with the details, because you may be enjoying a chimichanga right now and I'd hate for you to loose your lunch.
Since we saw neither hide nor hair of our waitress for another 10 minutes, we flagged down the manager. She was very apologetic and helpful and replaced the salsa. We were handed vouchers for a return visit. A highly doubtful prospect.
The food finally came. We were starving, so we scarfed it down in record time. It was okay, if not bland.
If you absolutely must visit Calico Jack's Cantina, keep in mind that it's a college bar masquerading as a restaurant by day.
And should you covet "Shake it like Shakira" contests and $2 Miller Lite specials, I know where you can procure a voucher or two.
August 1, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (0)
June 26, 2007
Little book the toast of the town
Dish chats with one of the authors of "Where We Like To Eat n' At"
Sitting in a wooden booth at the Monterey Pub on the North Side last night, Gail Nesbitt Jones beamed as she answered questions about her new book, "Where We Like To Eat n' At." The 50-something mother of three was there with family and friends as Dish "staff" mobbed her as if she were a rock star. Since the book came out only a few days ago, she and co-author Marsha Dugan Kolbe have become unwitting celebrities in Pittsburgh.
The book, which features 57 neighborhood restaurants and watering holes, came about on a lark. Nesbitt Jones, of Mt. Lebonon and Kolbe, of Highland Park, enjoy galavanting through Pittsburgh neighborhoods in search of local fare. After many calories consumed and tabs paid, they decided "why not?"
They teamed up with illustrator Lani Challburgh Walker whose delightful drawings accompany each location. The slim volume took off and the mothers became local media darlings.
"I never thought this would happen," laughed Nesbitt Jones. "I'm going to be on the radio, whould've thought that!"
The Monterey Pub is featured in the book. "This is the kind of place that defines a neighborhood restaurant," she said. "This is one of the many reasons I love this city."
The $10 book is available at local bookstores and can be purchased on their website.
June 26, 2007 in Books & Reading, Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (0)
June 25, 2007
Chocolate factory coming to the North Side?
New neighbor for the Garden? Sweet.
Owners of a prominent Upstate New York chocolate factory were in town over the weekend for a look-see at a building on West North Avenue on the North Side. The large building is located next to the Garden Theater and part of a cluster of buildings the Urban Redevelopment Authority of Pittsburgh (URA) hopes will attract new businesses.
The chocolatiers, who Dish will not name at this time, were extremely interested but apprehensive about renovation costs. But, they said, they had taken a chance on their present location --a city that has gone through an impressive revitalization -- which proved to be a smart business move for them and their community.
Their factory supplies private label and custom chocolates to upscale department stores and grocers (including Whole Foods). A Pittsburgh location would include wholesale as well as a retail shop.
Keep fingers crossed. Dip them in chocolate for extra luck.
June 25, 2007 in Business & Retail, Mexican War Streets, North Side, Real Estate, Rebuilding Pittsburgh, Scoop du Jour | Permalink | Comments (0)
June 12, 2007
The Dish on Dish: Jerome Bettis' Grille 36
Photos by Frank Kownacki. Click for larger views.
The waitress, wearing the Grille 36 lady waitstaff uniform—a yellow tank top covered by a black tube top, which, let Dish assure you, is a combo flattering to no one—approached the table on the patio outside Jerome Bettis' new restaurant. She proudly told Mr. and Mrs. Dish and their Dining companions that the beer list featured 32 options, "Just like the number 32 Jerome wore."
This kind of error surpasses the inexcusable; and, perhaps, rises to the blasphemous. Not only regarding Bettis, but His heroic predecessor, Franco Harris.
In any event, this snafu was a harbinger of things to come.
Sitting in the evening sun betwixt Heinz Field and PNC Park, Mr. and Mrs. Dish ordered draft beers to slake their thirst. They tasted as though something foul had fouled the tap lines. These beers were sent back.
Mrs. Dish ordered a bottle of Yuengeling. That turned out fine. Mr. Dish ordered an Iron City. Out came an I.C. Light, which was sent back. About 10 minutes later, the proper beer arrived. It was consumed. Another of its kind was ordered. Out came an I.C. Light. It was sent back. Lather, rinse, repeat.
Dinner was ordered. The Dishes and their dining chums were somewhat surprised to find that a side salad was not included in the price of a pasta dinner. Needing greens, Mr. Dish dropped another $3.95 on the foliage, as did Pregnant Lady Buddy of the Dishes. The salad, let it be said, was fine
Entrees arrive. Mr. Dish's rigatoni with spicy sausage looked appealing. Sadly, the sauce was too sweet and too plentiful. 'Twas almost like pasta soup. A nice touch, though, were the whole spinach leaves interspersed in the sauce and pasta. The nice touch was ruined when Mr. Dish realized the kitchen had not been instructed to wash the leafy green before serving. Mr. Dish does not like his spinach gritty.
Impregnating Chum of Dish had a plain 'ol burger topped with cheese and a portabella mushroom cap. The burger was quality, though overdone by medium rare standards. No big deal, though, as ICoD was the first to join the clean plate club at the table of four.
Mrs. Dish had the ribs. An awful lot of ribs. When Mrs. Dish ordered, she was somewhat surprised that the waitress asked her how she wanted them done, assuming there was only one way to have them: Cooked. The sauce, sadly, couldn't be tasted, though the ribs themselves were juicy and meaty; which is just the way one wants one's juicy meat.
PLBoD enjoyed her macaroni and cheese. Though a bit on the cold side when it reached table side, the creamy/crunchiness was pleasing to the palate. Mr.Dish would comment more on PLBoD's dish, but he hates cheese and wouldn't really look at the stuff, let alone taste it.
Complaints aside, Grille 36 has redeeming qualities aplenty. The view and the outdoor seating area make the trip to the river's edge worthwhile. Also, it seems that at the most basic level the quality of the food is more than adequate, meaning that once the kitchen and waitstaff work the kinks out, the overall appeal of the victuals may approach the charm of the atmosphere.
For now, Grille 36 is a pleasant enough place with decent enough food. It can, and likely will, be better. But even if relative perfection is never approached, the retired Mr. Bettis can rely on the patronage of customers such as the guy in his 50s, clad in a replica Bettis jersey (expecting a discount, perhaps?), lounging in a chair on the patio lost in a reverie of number 36's glory days.
June 12, 2007 in Food and Drink, Food/Restaurant reviews, North Side, Scoop du Jour, Steelers, The Dish on Dish | Permalink | Comments (40)
June 01, 2007
The Dish on Dish: Muriel's
The queen of Allegheny West
Mr. Dish is a committed mumbler. Knowing this, he should have taken greater care to enunciate when trying to order the Cornish game hen.
"I'll have the ga(mumble, mumble) hen," said he.
The waiter, James, looked at him, looked at Mrs. Dish, looked back at him, looked back at Mrs. Dish, then back to the mister again.
"What?" James, a tall and pleasant fellow, asked.
"Um," muttered Mr. Dish, "the game hen. The hen."
"Did you say gay hen?" asked Mrs. Dish. James smiled a bit.
"No, game hen, the game hen. Game, I said," Mr. Dish replied. "The hen's sexuality makes no difference to me. What goes on in the barnyard stays in the barnyard. I don't care if the damn thing drove here in a Subaru with a rainbow sticker. I want the game hen."
And with that out of the way, dinner at Muriel's began.
First, the interior of the converted row house: pastel blue, yellow, seafoam green, black framed prints and large Victorian windows that give it an airy feel. We didn't get to see the garden patio as it was raing cats, dogs and other four-legged animals last night.

Accompanied by surpassingly mediocre bottle of Rabbit Ridge zinfandel (don't blame Muriel's, it's BYOB), Mr. and Mrs. Dish began their repast at the newish Western Avenue dining establishment with and Rosalita's potatoes. What the Dishes seemed to be dealing with, and please forgive them if they've gotten the name wrong Rosalita's potatoes. What the Dishes seemed to be dealing with here were mashed taters dotted with bacon crumbles, wrapped in thin dough and fried.
After the first bite, what they knew they were dealing with were little, golden brown nuggets of flavor. Truly simple and truly superb. And a sign of things to come.
The house salads that followed came with greens, bleu cheese (eschewed by Mr. Dish, a committed anti-fromagian), sunflower seeds, dried cranberries and an unusually flavorful vinegarette. Neither Dish could put the palate on exactly what made this dressing a cut above the ordinary. Suffice it to say, it was.
Then the entrees. Mr. Dish's hen came and he, as one must when presented with smoky meat on the bone, manually tore it to shreds in a most gruesome fashion. He only chewed because he wanted to get every molecule of flavor out of his bird. The accompanying peach salsa (given a kick with jalepeno peppers and a few other ingredients) and a nutty soy sauce treated fried rice not only created a fine balance to the smoky fowl, but they were nearly divine in their own right.
Mrs. Dish opted for the special: Mushroom-stuffed ravioli topped with Parma sweet sausage and a chipoltle cream sauce. Mrs. Dish found it as Mr. Dish found the hen, though she used a fork rather than her fingers as did her less-civilized spouse. The fairly unadorned asparagus on the side was so enjoyed by Mrs. Dish that she took the opportunity to criticize Mr. Dish's asparagus cooking abilities right in front of owner and chef, Stephen. The sting of approbation would have hurt more had Mr. Dish not still been enjoying the hen still lingering on his palate.
Dessert was bread pudding with a whiskey sauce for the missus and a soft, spongy cake with cream and berries for the mister. Superlatives fail. And most impressively, both deserts, like all on the Muriel's menu, are made in-house, a rarity these days.
And, um, the coffee's damn good too.
Mr. and Mrs. Dish settled the tab, went home and slept the sleep of the well-fed and well-pleased. Muriel's is a delightful addition to the lovely historic corrider along Western Avenue.
To make dinner reservations, read Muriel's story and check out the brunch, lunch and dinner menus, go to www.muriels.net.
June 1, 2007 in Business & Retail,





















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